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https://www.sadolin.co.uk/products/sadolin-superdec-satin-opaque-wood-protection/?doing_wp_cron=1480859925.2698919773101806640625 Not a massive colour range but a fair few to choose from, definately a nice solid colour, no undercoat or knotting is required unless its extremely resinous, just...

You can buy texture repair kits with the tools included, may be more economical.

Does seem a little strange but its just where the walls expand and contract due to the amount of moisture they are holding. As they dry out the cracks will again become wider.

I purchased an earlex 5 years ago and its still going strong, used it for long periods at a time with no problems. Certainly earned me its money worth.

I would be putting a sliding mitre saw at the top of the list or if your comfortable using one then invest in a decent table saw, a circular saw if your cutting a fair bit of sheet material. If you go for a table saw then no need for the mitre saw, depending on how big the table saw is you...

As a painter myself I would never leave my tools behind unless I asked first. As for leaving the job to do another, this can happen but you would pre arrange these circumstances before hand. Moving furniture would be charged in the price if the client wasn't prepared to do it themselves, so...

Never used the weather shield, when it comes to exterior water based, I swear by sadolin superdec.

Johnston's over dulux all the time for me, but iam anti dulux lol

Tiling would be the best option in my opinion, if you was to just paint then I would seriously consider using masonry paint.

Don't know if its the best thing but I just use fine wire wool, brings them up nice and shiney.

If your very carful and take your time then its possible to save it, damp sponge job rather than a steamer.

Going on the back of previous comments about a detail sander. If you have a multi tool then that could double up as one, then get a good random orbital. The mouse sanders do work well and have there use.

I'm going to step away from this and let the experts help you out, I thought it was just a one off issue and didn't want it happening again, (ie water tank over flow). Hope its not a big problem to fix.

Would be wasting time and money, would a roller on a pole be an option?

Couldn't see a problem with it myself, no different from other drainage, just dostnt have a hopper. Or put a water butt under it lol

Could just slide the pipe intended over the copper pipe.

Would be fine to attach to, the problem you would have will be that you wouldn't be able to open them very wide once the blind was on as it opens against the recess/wall. Thinking about it, measure the distance from the window and the wall when its open as it could be OK.

Probably mould spots, clean with diluted bleach to kill it before any repaint, my personal preference is to use masonry paint for bathrooms.

Speed a practised technique and a decent synthetic brush are the key to a great finish with the water Bourne paints, I use the crown satin and at first was a bit rough but after learning how the paint works/acts I can achieve a very high standard of finish now. I have used over a hundred tins of...

Fingers crossed its just an isolated area, when appying the first coat of paint, watch out for any blistering of the paint below.