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Lack of ventilation is often a problem in cellars and can lead to condesnation problems - in fact the British Standard for basement waterproofing (BS8102) effectively requires ventilation if you are going to use the cellar for habitable space - see http://www.cellars.co.uk/cellar-conversion.php...

Have you completely discounted condensation? I have found that it is a very common form of dampness in built-in wardrobes. You have a combination of low airflow and clothes that still retain some moisture from the washing process - even if they are touch-dry. It is most commonly a problem where...

Creams are now the most commonly used method of installing a chemical DPC - see http://www.dryzone.eu/

Try searching for "Kitchens" or similar on www.archisearch.co.uk

If it really is rising damp, Dryzone is the only cream-based treatment that I would recommend - basically because all the others contain very low levels of active ingredient. However, as the previous posters point out, your first step should be to find out exactly what is causing the damp. A...

There are many types of waterproofer - all of which work in different ways. Many of the admixes that are added to renders basically reduce the amount of water that is required to make the render workable. This has the benefit of reducing shrinkage during curing and therefore reducing the number...

Unforturnately, that's easier said than done. Products like Vandex BB75 are very good at holding back damp in cellars (provided that the substrate is properly prepared). However, if you just seal up a patch the damp will just find its way round and reappear somewhere else on the wall. For a...

Unfortunately, in the case of most old cellars the cause of the problem is that they were never intended to be dry, habitable environments in the first place. Fortunately they can be upgraded, although it costs money to do it properly.

Just standard cement. Unfortunately, it gives a very hard, cold render - but it is still the best way of holding back the salts associated with rising damp.

In theory it's best to leave it as long as possible before you replaster to allow the wall to dry out more quickly. In practice, most people want the wall replastered ASAP. Most people use a 3:1 sand;cement render incorporating a salt-resistant additive to replaster after a DPC. But that is...

If the damp is caused by rain penetration a silcone-based waterproofer may work. The advantage is that these are completely colourless so will not affect the look of the wall. The disadvantage is that they only prevent water penetration through pores in the mortar / brickwork, so if you have any...

Click on this article and scroll down for pictures of dry rot http://www.buildingpreservation.com/Dry%20rot.htm However, as RigidRaider points out, if it's under a shower it's probably wet rot.

I have used Oldroyd membranes for this application before and have to say they are very effective - in fact these types of membranes are used by most professional basement conversion companies. Strictly speaking, you should have a sump and pump as part of the system as the relevant British...

In my experience damp-proofing paints are a waste of time, even in above-ground situations. Since your problem is a more demanding below-ground situation I really wouldn't hold out much hope of it success. If the dampness is a problem you really need to get it properly waterproofed.

It depends on the brand and type of treatment being used. Most modern treatments do not contain solvents and actually spread better in damp walls. In the past chemical injections used to be solvent-based and these systems did indeed spread better in dry walls. For this reason some people...

It's definitely a good idea to check what is causing the damp in the first place. But if the problem is indeed down to a failed DPC, chemical injection (pressurised or non-pressurised) is a hell of a lot less disruptive than putting a new physical DPC in - which is the only other method that I...

There are a number of non-pressurised DPC systems on the market, most of which take the form of a damp-proofing cream which is injected in to holes drilled in the mortar course using a mastic gun. Although, several of these damp-proofing creams are BBA-approved, the only one that I would...

If you go for the membrane option, you can just pour a screed over the membrane on the floor and then put whatever floor finish you want over the top. If you are going for the cementitious option you are really supposed to remove old stone floors and pour a new slab (expensive!). This is because...

If the cellar is a decent size and has good ceiling height (so you don't have to excavate) it is a pretty straightforward job. The easist way is to line the walls using a cavity drainage membrane - see http://www.safeguardeurope.com/case_studies/basement_conversion_manchester.php The cost...

Rising Damp, Rising Damp, Rising Damp. There, I got it off my chest. I have spoken the phrase that dare not speak its name. Discounting those strange people who believe rising damp to be some kind of conspiracy theory, I think it is clearly the most likely explanation in this situation. The...