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Take the blade out of the stanley knife put some masking tape on the marble, wear some thick gloves and slowly gnaw away at the silicone.

Do you also have this issue in summer or when its warmer ?

Can you turn off the heating thermostat before going to bed ? Your best bet is it identify when that noise is on vs off. If it turns on with heating or when the cylinder is recharging then that gives you good diagnositic insight. If its heating, then you need to take a look at the thermostat. If...

I am talking about the top washer. The shape of the opening and the waste are of different gradients and the seal acts as a padding between the two.

What time at night does the noise start ? and is it always the same time ? And what is your thermostat for heating to set at ?

You can't install a bath waste without the washer otherwise you risk breaking the waste if you tighten it too much. Usually ideal use a belt and braces with wastes though due to leaks being potentially very expensive to repair post-installation - so washer and silicone.

55c should be more than enough. You can get a temp sensor to gauge how hot the water is on the tap and adjust based on that. The reason for heating the water to this temp is to ensure legionella is killed off. When does your hw cylinder heating cycle run ? usually it is at night.

What pump are you using for UFH and what speed is it on ? Also, how do you use your UFH ? its usually designed to run at lower temps (20-28c) for longer periods (ideally 24/7).

I have adjusted the cams to no avail. The keep is a striker plate, something like: https://upvcspares4repairs.co.uk/avocet-erk065m-keep-plate-striker-mushroom-upvc-window-lock.html It doesn't seem to have any wear on it. The cam does enter it though.

So I've tinkered with it and pulling it in harder does seal it properly. I am going to get some new roller cam keeps and see if I can get the window to seal tighter in hope that'll fix the air leak.

What do you mean by sleeve it ?

air leak sorry, no water ingress. The gasket has be changed. The installer paid little attention to detail and it seems its been leaking for years. Maybe I could put a wedge in the outer skin of the frame on that side to push it in by a mm or so ? but then the hinges are attached to the frame.

I could move into the shed? that is about 10m from the house though.

Cheers. I have another window which is slightly leaking at the bottom side section on the opening part of the sash - I adjusted the hinges, and moved the sash 4mm to the right which fixed the gap, but the cams were clipping the frame, so I moved it to 3mm instead. It still leaks ever so slightly...

My upvc window has dropped and is letting in a cold breeze on the top corner. I will need to toe and heel it, do I take off all the beads ? or just the top and side where the window has dropped ?

A core drill through no fines ? is that even possible ? Using a drill bit is bad enough.

I need to drill a 90mm hole through 400mm of no fines. Doesn't need to be perfectly round. Any suggestions ? I could get about 50mm with an sds.

Yay, or nay ? I want to install a 400L cylinder as a thermal battery with solar but no space indoors. There is the attic but that is very far away from the boiler (soon to be ASHP) and 400L is a lot of weight). The location of the cylinder will be about 1m from the boiler albeit outdoors and...

Don't be daft. All bets are off until we can establish the cause, and you clearly can't so don't be hasty. You could take pictures of the full door from the inside/outside, the frame, sash - there are many kinds of pictures you could take. There will be all sorts of nuances others will pick up...

How far back do they need to be set ? I didn't know this