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The problem could be a loose connection in your plug.

Norway electricity is the same price regardless of the time of day.

I use one of these http://www.cuthbertsonlaird.co.uk/datasheets/fluke/Details_T100series.htm which has an in built "neon screwdriver" and is also GS38 compliant. As pointed out your usual test lamps aren't much use if all you are presented with is one wire in a box - how do you know if its...

If you went down the route of just using energy efficient lamps then you have changed your design. I've often looked for "good looking" energy efficient light fittings and there doesn't seem to be much about for domestic use.

Fluorescent fittings are what used to be the norm for kitchens to keep Building Control happy. The following link may be helpful: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Lighting/L1_Regs/Index.htm There is a statutory duty to provide energy efficient lighting of some kind. " Reasonable...

You can get it checked. Ring up your supplier. There will be a charge if there is nothing found. I think it costs around £30.

Maybe you have an overvoltage problem. Maybe a loose connection at the consumer unit or isolator. Maybe neutral is at a different potential to earth.

A circuit can run through zone 3 and comply with BS7671. However trunking hanging down doesnt comply.

Temporary wiring needs to comply with the regs as does permanent wiring. Normally an Electrician would fit a temporary board at the service head. This would comprise of a number of 13A Socket Outlets protected by a RCD. The various trades would bring their transformer and plug it in. If you...

I wasnt given any training in plastering. I work for a company where some of the Electricians sometimes do a little plastering. I don't as I like to do a good job and I know I'm no plasterer. Also the company charges £25 an hour and for that you want a professional job.

I cant see how they can decide that. You can just do the job and give them the certificates then there is nothing they can do about it.

Its a good post. I don't think it could be shorter and include all the information. If the "labc scams" comment were removed it would make it more professional looking. I agree with your comments regarding the standing of the regs. However I cant see any local authority or scheme provider...

>>Interestingly it tripped out twice in recent nights as storms passed over Lightning has been known to trip out my rcd.

Also it could be a live to earth fault on the boiler. Is there an earth cable connected to the water pipe somewhere near where it comes into the house? If there is then there should be no potential between the sink and any other earth - assuming good electrical connection between water pipe...

If you dont want to use heat shrink use some self amalgamating tape to insulate the joint. Normal insulating tape is no good as it will eventually come loose especially if it gets warm.

The consumer unit needs to be accessible. Accessibility is often a matter of opinion but if your loft isn't boarded and you need a ladder to get in then I don't think you could argue that it was accessible. Another point is that cables need to be derated when running in your loft insulation...

Mu On-Site Guide shows both ways of doing it. i.e. with a 100mA time delay RCD as the main switch and also with an isolator as the main switch feeding a 100mA and 30mA rcds.

You could solder the bonding to the pipes under the floor boards. However you wouldnt have much success unless the pipes were empty.