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I think it's a bit much to avoid buying the whole house because of one slightly dodgy patio door... It's not like the current owners actually built the house... The door looks crap to me. The mitres and alignment on that moulding are miles off, and I've no idea why those screws are visible...

In all likelihood a modern steel frame is just as good if not better than a typical masonry build. Longevity of the steel is not an issue, certain poorly designed post-war steel frame houses with no rust protection in costal areas had problems, which has led to a myth about steel frame...

You need to strip the plasterboard off the inside the serving hatch back to the studs, then attach your new stud frame directly in to these, then plasterboard over it and skim/blend it in. There should be no wall plugs involved. If you don't want a crack to appear all the way round you need...

I suppose if it's only single storey he might get away with it, but really if you end up with normal breeze blocks you're running the risk it won't be straight AND you're missing the time saving benefit of buying those huge thin-joint blocks where you basically lay two and the extension's finished.

I thought the point was you could use those huge jumbo blocks to make it even quicker?

Not really the point though is it? We, the tax payer, paid to assemble those maps. Now we're having to buy them back from some random company in order to build a garden wall? I understand the council needing to have a map of the site but why can't they just put a free map on their...

How exactly do you weld a bolt hole to a plate? :lol:

Anybody else think the situation with planning maps is a bit of a rip off? Councils insisting on having a map which you've bought, specifically disallowing any type of map which could be had for free, then making a list of 'approved suppliers' who they link you to... Most seem to be...

If this is a buy to let I would simply walk away. The issue may or may not be serious but the think about investment properties is there will always be others (thousands of them in fact) and there's simply no reason to take any risk of extraneous costs. I don't even bother looking at anything...

I once used "flexible grout" and it was exactly the same as normal grout, so far as I could see. Cracked all the same in due time too, due to weak floorboards.

If you're not used to DIY type jobs and/or don't have patience and care and dexterity in your wrists then yeah I guess it can mess it up. Worse case scenario though you just chisel it back out and start again :lol:

Repointing is childs play. Do it yourself. Just make sure the mixture isn't sloppy else it'll go on your wall, and knock up some kind of tray so you can 'slide' the mortar in to the beds easily. If you've got any common sense you'll figure it out. Carefully work with a paint brush to...

Are they full sized 2"x3" studs? Not just little battens (roughly 15mm x 30mm)?

That was my first thought, but, he said he phoned the guy and he told him to leave it 6 months to dry out? Also seems like a few too many to be necessary for testing purposes...

I'd be flabbergasted if the surface area of those holes is going to help dry out the wall. Rising (and indeed penetrating) damp is a competition between the water absorption rate and evaporation. Water evaporates out of the wall across it's whole surface area, faster or slower depending on...

Harness, rope, ladder, bucket, 1 bag premix mortar, 1 pointing trowel, 1 chisel, 1 hammer. £25 and about an hour of your time :D I don't know why everyone is obsessed with scaffolding these days. A rope is infinitely safer and far cheaper/quicker. Also more fun. I would imagine you'll...

I have to say with an angle grinder I would probably buy a cheap one, if you're not using it loads. They're so simple there's not much to go wrong during anything other than industrial useage. I've stripped a few over the last 2 years to adapt into other forms of machinery and the...

You considered pattern imprinting it? Pretty easy to do and mats can be bought for cheap (or made yourself for even cheaper).

Just took the liberty of checking as I thought that sounded wrong:- "You will need to apply for planning permission if you wish to erect or add to a fence, wall or gate and: • it would be over 1 metre high and next to a highway used by vehicles (or the footpath of such a highway); or over...

I think the rule about planning permission is that you'll need PP if it's more than 1m high and is either at the front of the property, or, forms a border between your property and a public road (path?). You can find out for sure from the planning portal website - just google it.