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Very true- and when you add the many millions of situations giving possible waste of energy in this class- it is not very 'green' practice either. I, on buying me first house, found an outside piece or conduit feeding the toilet in the back which was waterlogged- and was giving a constant...

On the nail Legs-akimbo, I was about to comment something similar- but you've put it better. D9- just have to buy a decent pair of headphones- or an ORGAN and play it louuuud! :)

Much appreciated, guys- I will sort both out from suppliers. Just glad to know that it is a 'stock' problem. Thanks for replies. (Excuse my butting in- post originator) :roll:

Sounds like the deadly kuu-flux-flan ! But while on the subject of two way sw. Can you assist me in understanding how I get over the hazzard of: I have a triple gang switch downstair- two parts of which are on the down fuse, and one part on the up fuse. I once drew out the down fuse to fix...

A 25 inch wide 'hose' is indeed a small hose! :) I'm no builder, but if you have a layout to enable a centre wall to be put in- with say an arch doorway. You could cross brace the two sides of the new walls strong enough to 'pull up' the floor with big coach bolts. Just a thought! (assuming a...

Just to complicate the issue- have you thought of warming these beasties from underneef- or are you using a mat and exiting the barf at breakneck speed? :)

Have you thought of a 'beamed' style ceiling in the 'kitchen'- give you more height of sorts. The beams resting on the protruding 1foot wall tops? A quality pine flooring onto the beams, maybe?

If it's not too big a bump- I used an angle grinder and vac.- and if you're not too fussy about the finish. You can work on that with a sander to tidy a bit- Or try wet it and skim with a wet cement paste. However I'm no expert. :!:

Worth a try if it's flexible- and stays that way!

Good advice there, but may I add, if you can cut with a slightly angled blade, you may be able to glue down again using the 'cut-out'. (thick paste glue) :roll:

Forgive the diversion chaps- (Konrad wrote "Bylough- is that your name?") No not so- but-- There's an old wooden shack By lough 'long forgot' where I dream my dreams of...

Hi Konrad, I am not concerned in this post, but I am so impressed with this excellent scientific explanation, great. I believe it concerns us all in our quest for better insulation, and understanding of same. ( please excuse my 'butting-in' all.)

Well if you hit it with a copper hammer, the hammer would go first I'm sure- or wood it?

Or the 'Bow' room - where Robin Hood kept his 'boughs an arrers'! :D

We had the same prob. with a long term job in the lounge room, We found a pac of plastic dust cover sheeting 9 by 12 foot at 99p was ideal to replace the curtains temporarily - draw as and when you like- light gets through but opaque enough to not see through!

Hi shufti, I would suggest a pre-stressed quality re-inforced concrete lintol of 6" high by 4" wide -as 8 foot is not a big span. Make sure you have a good 6" purchase each side of the room .

Hi roblatus (sorry all for breaking in), I would say- since the heavy iron lengths- unconnected 'floating' are not earthed, to be definitely a hazzard. The other things mentioned are all earthed somewhere. (but they two can be 'caught' by lightning, and you know the storms are getting more...

Or get Radio 1 on your telli !!

All good advice here. May I add though- forget the angle iron idea, unless you want to have a built-in lightning conductor!!

Give it a scottish name like THE WEE ROOM! och aye.