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If you remove the stat ,and connect the incoming live directly to the element ,does the RCD still trip instantly ?

What trips , RCD ,MCB, RCBO ? Does the trip happen immediately the element is turned on ,or sometime afterwards?

Did they ever heat fully ?

If a radiator isn't heating up there is no flow through it ,so the x400 will do nowt as far as that radiator goes.

Call out an engineer. If you want to save water,close your mains cold water stopcock. Put it on ,as and when you need water.

How many rads don't heat up currently ? Close the TRV ( or wheel head if no TRV) on all rads that currently heat up. See if any cold rads now heat up. Report back.

It looks like the staining on the wall has been there for some time, and from the original leak. If you were expecting the staining to just disappear once the leak was stopped ,that's unlikely to happen. With regard to the 14 year old boiler ,I personally wouldn't keep spending money on it now...

Take the bleed valve out ,if there is a plumbers merchant open near to you take it there to get a new O ring. If not ,wrap PTFE tape around it's thread and re fit it . Get a new O ring when possible . It looks like the leak may not be from the bleed valve though .

Yes ,that standpipe/ trap from Screwfix is what you need . You would use a short length of 40mm waste pipe horizontally from the trap to an elbow ,and from the elbow another piece of pipe , vertically down into the boss.

Fit a standpipe and trap,and from that pipework into the black boss ( reducer) in the floor.

It's fine ,don't overtighten it. The slip ring on other fittings is essentially to prevent the rubber seal from twisting / misforming, providing even pressure onto it.

Indeed , unfortunately there is a limit to what can be diagnosed remotely. You asked for " parameters",and if things could be "narrowed down" to lessen the chance of being " burnt". The information given by all the contributers has hopefully given you some clarity in that regard, and I sincerely...

I suggest you call in a heating engineer.

Did the system heat all radiators previously,and at some point the downstairs rads stopped heating up ?

With the valve " energised" as per your instruction ,the orange wire could well carry 230/240 volts irrespective if it is in a terminal block. John ,your instructions are not very clear and could possibly lead someone to try to measure resistance on conductors carrying mains voltage ,might be...

WARNING. Do not attempt to measure resistance on live conductors

230/240 volts between the orange wires terminal and earth terminal when downstairs valve only is on calling for heat.

Yes ,you would need to do some voltage testing to establish if the orange wire at the wiring centre reads 230/240 volts . Are you competent to work safely on live circuitry ?

The motorised valve sends the voltage to the boiler to fire it up. The motorised valve gets its voltage from the thermostat.

If the upstairs is switched on ,fires up the boiler,and downstairs switched off ( no call for heat from downstairs stat),do the downstairs rads still heat up ? If so ,the valve body of the downstairs valve must be physically stuck open.