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A few months ago I installled a Manrose 100T in duct fan in the attic. The only noise you could hear was the air moving through the fan, but another noise is becoming more noticeable. It's keeping me awake until the fan cuts off, 1/2 hr after someone has used the bathroom. It's a pulsing...

Just in case anyone is interested, the supplier sent down a few more slabs which in no way replaced the quantity of bad slabs, but I have to get on with the job. I just have to accept that substandard sh1t is the norm when it comes to wet cast slabs.

Got my slabs delivered today and what a disappointment. Chipped, dirty, different colours, splashes of buff dye on the grey ones and quite a few have the concrete mix showing as if the veneer of colouring had been scrubbed away. Hand picked? With a blindfold on it seems.

Since the revamp of the forum, I'm lost and didn't know there was a Gardening section. I just posted where others with similar had posted. No refund yet, but bought the same patio set at a place locally today, didn't know it existed. The manager couldn't have been more helpful and showed me how...

Posted in the wrong section: http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/patio-slabs-chipped-and-patchy-and-not-even-laid-yet.437542/

The supplier eventually got back to me with apologies and insisted on sending another set down, but when it arrived it was the same. I refused it, at which point the driver became abusive and insulting. Refund promised, yet to materialise, but what a nice bloke and nice company to deal with....NOT.

I ordered a patio set online and when it arrived I noticed that most were chipped or marked from not being padded when in transit. Also, some have a large damp looking patch on them, which is worse when wetted. The supplier is useless, but I wondered if any of you chaps on here could say whether...

If it was a cavity wall the window frames would sit on the inner edge of the outside leaf, so the outer sill would not be deep, but you would have a sill on the inside too. If you want to keep inline with the existing roofline without reducing the area inside the porch or if the doorway...

Makes sense, but a bit of damp is more than an issue than you would believe. During these drier spellls, it's easy to disregard it. I'm sure there must be a space saving insulation method to hold it at bay, but others will chime in perhaps?

It will probably be OK as it is, but you could reinforced the framework to the house wall with wall bolts. If the structure is not secured to the house wall, the weight of the roof will be more at the furthest edge away from the wall, with a potential 'hinge' effect where it's lower edge meets...

Your porch roof is probably well fixed to the house wall as it is. How are you going to fit the windows? Are you building up to the existing roof with blocks, incorporating windows or fitting upvc windows to entirely fill in between the roof and the proposed porch wall? Mine 'fill in the gap'...

If I turn off the water supply to the shower and its still hard/impossible to operate the lever....then what? I've called Triton and even with this information I still get told about the call out fee as if its a given. At the moment I feel like ripping it off the wall and replacing with a...

My mirror is near the rad too, but as I have a combi boiler the heating stops when the shower is running. As I said, it's better than before and as long as the mould stays away it's all good. Thanks all.

Much like most bathrooms, they are smooth glazed tiles which always feel colder is what I'm saying. The room is warm enough, provided the rad's been on. I was expecting the humidity from the shower to be drawn away to such an extent that condensation on any surface wouldn't be an issue. This...

agile, johnD it is the MF100T, so should be good at 245m3 /hr......not l/hr... and it's set to run on for around 20 minutes. stem, I see what you mean about sucking condensation of the walls, but they are ceiling to floor in tiles which I hate as they are so cold regardless of room...

Thanks for the replies. First to the moderator, I haven't duplicated my post. I posted in the 'wrong'section but was alerted to that by another member, so I posted in the 'correct' section. There is a 1" gap under the bathroom door and the window is usually open on the latch too, so...

I've just fitted a Manrose 100T extractor fan in my loft space to vent the bathroom which was like a wet room after a shower. First, considering the cost and alledged ability, I'm not overly impressed by the clearance of condensation on the tiled walls and elsewhere, especially as I searched...

I was looking for information and found some in the roofing section, so just did the same as plumbing didn't seem the right section either. Plenty of replacement air coming in with the 1" gap under the door.

I've just fitted a Manrose 100T extractor fan in my loft space to vent the bathroom which was like a wet room after a shower. First, considering the cost and alledged ability, I'm not overly impressed by the clearance of condensation on the tiled walls and elsewhere, especially as I searched...

I used a plasterboard box and the central knock out fitted the gland well. All tidier looking than an extension lead. thanks.