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Different manufacturers mark differently.

Double pole RCD module sitting in a standalone 2 way enclosure. Live on the left, neutral on the right. Supply connected to the bottom, load connected to the top. But can it be connected supply to the top, load to the bottom? Once it's tripped, load is disconnected in either configuration. Or...

That makes sense

I've noticed in meter cupboards that CUs, meters, isolators etc are mounted vertically. Is that done by regulation or convention? One cupboard I saw recently had the supply coming in the top forming a J to reach the bottom of a DP isolator, then an S to a meter then another S to the CU. It...

Sorry, should have said. Worcester Bosch 35CDi II modulating combi boiler. I'd guess installed around 2005 before we bought the house. The 20C differential was measured while all rads were set as normal, not just one working.

Before the season turns much colder, I'm going to balance my heating system properly - the 12C drop way rather than twiddle lockshields and hope for the best. Now I've made the classic DIYer error of reading the boiler manual. "Balance the system so that the required temperature difference...

Thankfully it is just that far corner that is sandy to the feel. The rest of the surface is good. The more I think about it, covering with ply is becoming increasingly appealing.

I hadn't thought of that. I suppose I could skip the framing completely and just glue/screw thin ply directly over the surfaces.

The flakey paint is removed.

Nah, they should have been forced to use then in a tight space and see how they liked skinned knuckles

Yep, I've got a stack of those. Way easier to use than the single piece reducers.

They're like hen's teeth and ridiculously expensive. Danfoss do 15mm, 22mm and 28mm versions but the bodies are identical; they just change the connectors.

Time to fit an auto bypass valve to my heating system but there's absolutely no space to fit a 22mm one. My plan is to pop one into the flow/return of the 15mm pipes that the rads feed from and use a 22mm ABV with compression reducers to fit the 15mm pipes. Is there anything I should look out for?

This sandstone lintel has had some long term water damage. Structurally sound and dried out now but some of the stone surface is flakey. What is the best method of stabalising the surface before plastering over?

So here's a typical lockshield here. Ancient, chewed and chrome damaged. So, they'll be painted in the next couple of weeks when I make the time. Question is whether to paint them silver or white?

Fibre optic link is the only safe solution. Also immune to electrical interference. And relatively future proof too. You and your pal may also want to think about using each other's houses as off site back-up as you'd have far more bandwidth between your houses than you'll ever use. Also think...

Given the volume of ES bulbs available nowadays, I'm still surprised I can't just buy ED pendants ... finding lampshades in the UK that would fit them is another discussion though.

One 15mm PB pipe running to a cold tap. Close tap and there's a nice water hammer. One surge arrester on a 15mm + 1/2" compression tee I've had in my bits bucket for awhile. Does PB mind a brass compression fitting with inserts, or will it kick up a fuss?

Spotted it now: "Johnstone's 303912 One Coat Satin Paint - Brilliant White". I saw mention of "Bedec Aqua Advanced Satin Paint Brilliant White". What are folks' opinion of that?

After a gooling, are you referring to "Johnstones Aqua Satin Brilliant White"?