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Contact whoever installed it if possible and ask them to check the ring final on the Ground sockets

Sounds like a large overload to me, possible cable damage shorting out somewhere. Rodents or similar. I think the ring circuit needs to be removed from the RCBO and thoroughly tested by an electrician not a DIY option i'm afraid

Make sure it isn't live and try to pull out as much of it as you can & do what JJ said, I'd cut it at an angle so there's no chance the conductors can touch one another.

TLC Link For Wago aren't the ideal ones the same size? Personally I'd use Ashley boxes https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ803.html

Better a false positive than false negative!

What power ratings are the new Oven and Hob going to be? What is the point of the Fused spur here?

In the first instance You could just use a multi meter to see if there's continuity between the outer core and central "stinger" by putting the leads on one end and shorting the other end out Screwfix do this these for Network testing though...

Has the shower got over run with a condensation sensor? I used anti condensation paint in our bathroom that contains small fibre glass fibres that make the wall warmer to touch.

I guess the current takes the path of least resistance

Re-terminate the Live while you're at it, too much copper is showing. I'd at least expect a stuffing gland to hold the cable in place

Did the grey not have any type of Blue Sleeving on it?

Where is the screw gone from that terminal? L_W Live Wire? Is there any kind of PIR device on the outside light?

You could try to see if a fish tape could push through and attach some strong blue rope if it does to use as a draw rope. Definitely do what ^ Murdochat ^ above suggests in the first instance

Run a Screened Cat6 with it use a hosepipe or duct to protect it. I ran 10mm to my Garden room for sockets the Electrician you hire will probably do the same or 16mm, really depends on the power consumption the Sauna will require.

I didn't say there were than five EFL, just that one is held in by the screw holding the back box in on the right above the live brown cables - which isn't normal.

I'm not sure why one of the earths is held by a screw against the back box on the right, maybe whoever did this did it due to it not reaching the socket. It's not normal to have four cables connected in a socket but two might just be spurs to other sockets & the other two part of a ring or...

So if I'm reading this correctly you can install a normal back box that's 25mm deep (33mm) or chase out some plaster to use a deeper 35mm box? Bury it as long as it's in an obvious safe zone place it in metal conduit if it's not so it's mechanically protected, surface mounted trunking will look...

Looks like you have two switches in the kitchen, a feed in and a feed to the next lot of lights. Have you a volt stick to see which is the incoming feed (probably the "blue wire")?

Can you send a photo of the Switch wiring? You'll need a minimum of a T&E feeding your wall light from the switch

The Way that's been terminated looks a little poor, the Brown has too much copper on show, is that black terminated into the switch got damaged insulation? I don't know why the grey outer sheath hasn't been stripped back more so there's more room in the back box.