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I try not to use plastic plasterboard boxes, I tend to fit a noggin and use metal boxes as they are better from a maintenance aspect and often I have found the lugs on the plastic boxes to be temperamental. I normally tuck all cables inside the back box in a loop then and place a piece of...

The only way of removing that without disruption is to pull the cable up/out enough to cut it with a multi tool with a metal cutting blade or angle grinder but really not worth the grief. Then hope the conductors push back down!

Nothing to do with your question as clearly Flameport & co have answered that, but Is that SWA coming out the Wiska box armour earthed anywhere? Hopefully there's a piranha locking nut inside it or at the other end.

Not much to add that hasn't already been mentioned but: Was this person supplying that MEM 2000 as part of the "installation"? Where is all that Trunking & was that already installed at the house end??

The Insulation will have a derating factor due to thermal effects. > Clicky

How many people live inside the property it's not a HMO is it?

Indeed, it is a little strange that the MCBs are slightly smaller than the RCDS. Hopefully the prongs are long enough!

Have you managed to locate a fault on the ring in your Mini CU?

The Busbar certainly needs to be checked, looking at the part on the left it doesn't even look like two of those circuits are even supplied. Not sure what it's been cut with, certainly not a sharp hacksaw or something suitable. I hate seeing exposed copper busbar like that makes me shudder. I...

I was wondering where that post was going at first Ragnar O Matron!

Stuffing glands https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Accessories_Index/Gland_Compression_Nylon_1/index.html

Is there a reason you really need to move it? That unit will light up quite a bit of that area. You have an opportunity to do a temporary fix first and see just how much exactly the light extends to. I have one of these lights down my side alley > l...

What happens when the screws are taken out?

Hi, I have swapped out quite a Few T5s the ones I've installed are only fed from one end. The preparation involves bypassing any ballast and simply connecting one end up directly to the incoming Switched Live / Neutral they are supplied with an LED starter but so far all i have replaced haven't...

I'm only thinking duct as the area would be easier for maintenance with it.

Run a small duct and use High Tuff. How are you switching these on / controlling them with the same light switch as the existing light your feeding off or do you want to do this separately? Is there a Neutral at the exterior light(s) or just a switched live and return

Ok, so they all come on and have power so what maybe required is adjustments to the light sensitivity and time the lights stay on. sometimes this is a bit hit and miss. If you switch them on now as it's dark can you see if they light up individually?

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Index/Flex_White/index.html If no Earth required https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Index/Flex_White_1/index.html If Earth is required https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/Plugs_Tops/index.html For a 13A...

They should switch on individually. You can get some PIR lights with a test switch to utilise when you want it on permanently when working near them so it maybe best to run three core & earth if this is something you'd like?

I always drill a 5mm pilot hole first to prevent blow outs