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I know sod all about carpets, but if it was timber my answer would be 'something is moving'. I can't see how squeaking can occur without something rubbing/flexing. It could be the underside of the carpet is rubbing agains the vinyle, I have no idea. But maybe try either an underlay that lets...

The beetles evolved to live in wet timber and damage happens after felling whilst the log is drying. They are called ambrosia beetles because that is the name of the mould/fungus that they live on (the black staining). Once the timber is dry, the mould cannot grow, and so they starve.

The nazi party got in with a minority vote. So the minority do not matter unless they activly stop and condem the nutters, they can be very fairly seen as part of the problem. /godwins law

Looks like ambrosia beetle / pinhole. The black staining around the holes is mould, the beetle tunnels into the timber when it is wet (typically when a log) and feeds on the mould that grows in the tunnels, once the timber is dry it cannot survive and so the infestation is not current. You can...

Routing out is a good idea. You could make a feature of it rather than trying to hide it, route and and insert a different coloured timber. or use a coloured filler. Personally I think it is better to make a feature of such items in furniture, rather than trying to hide them with crappy...

We don't need to kill any of them. Just close the borders to those countries and let them do the job for us, they seem more than happy to blow themselves up.

Happy to answer questions :p Just suprised by how much bits you seem to buy.

Your right, I am just being a bigot. Clearly if you have countries with a history that involves non stop in-fighting, high levels of corruption and crime then this is not at all influenced by their culture. Let them all in so that we can have lots of nice ethnic food shops, the people from...

Don't you just love the cultural enrichment of the middle eastern immigrants.

OP asked about insulating *between* metal studs if you read his posts, which is also a gypframe system. I was not responding to your post, which I am aware was an example of a support system behind insulation. Why waste my time? Thread was full of people telling me I'm wrong, those same...

Yea, I don't get something, replace everything and then charge you for treatment. Treating what if its all removed? Treatment is usually only to protect any timbers to be retained, and to give them protection whilst they dry. Once they are dry, or if they are already dry, dry timber does not...

If it is not to late, then seriously consider insulating, the payback is typically less than 10 years and the added comfort will be worthwile..

Main thing is make sure they are fully dried for internal heated use, which they should be after 8 months. Flexible fillers look crap, hard fillers have very little flexability so will not stretch if the timber dries further and splits widen. Timber that hasnt split :P

Yes. What is it with you and all these computer bits you are buying, you seem to buy enough stuff to keep a small shop in business!

Yes the metal frame will be a cold bridge, but that is not to say it is a problem, just an inefficency. Putting it between studs, timber or metal, may mean it is easier for you to do services if you are not doing a service zone. I gave plenty of sources in another thread demonstrating my...

Yes you can have service void so as not to compramise the VCL, so VCL or foil faced insulation, battens and then plasterboard. You can find this detail on most insulation and membrane manufacturers websites, and on accredited details. As long as the VCL is on the warm side of the construction...

Seems you are joining nosealls bandwagon of selectivly picking parts of posts out of context and without checking facts. Please feel free to circle jerk each other in your lame attempts to argue with me.

Insulation material like that will stop airborn sound by absorbing it. But density is key, which is why acoustic insulation is more dense. Filling any gap will make a difference, but a very lightweight foam is not the best solution, suck it and see.

Nice bait noseall. It has to be on the warm side, you can have a service void in front of it, or it can be directly behind the plasterboard. If you wish to continue the other thread where you ignored all the standard details that show this, please do so. And like the other thread, no, I will...

The veneer looks like stained ash? Not sure about the beading. foxholes link will do well for light scratches, more than that and you are talking of stripping the finish and starting again (probably not practicle/possible unless it has a decent veneer thickness, which is doubtfull)