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Read... https://content.historicengland.org.uk/images-books/publications/eehb-insulating-solid-walls/eehb-insulating-solid-walls.pdf/ Has everything you need. If you leave a cavity behind the insulation (typically not required), then this cavity should be vented to the outside, not the inside...

Can the manufacturer provide * Section drawings for the windows. * Installation instructions Either the frame is poor and allowing thermal bridging, or it has been fitted so as to compromise the frame (i.e. no foam fill around the cavity). Yes, but decent organisations will be charging...

Barrier for what? Is this a suspended timber floor with no insulation? If you want a barrier for airtightness purposes, then as ree said, roofing membranes will be breathable but somewhat airtight (you can get specific airtight breathable membranes, waste of money for this situation). If you...

Mass and seperation. Filling the core of the door with insulation will absorb sound passing through the doors hollow core, but if the door does not have much mass then I don't think it will do much. 30mm of foam, can't see it making a huge difference, and you are bound to leave hollow gaps...

How dare people remove old buildings that none of the people who want them protected would live in or near by. Such a terrible loss.

Paints and stains don't like wet wood, the pressure treatments are usually water based, and fencing/cheap timbers have poor moisture control. Assuming the timber is 10-20mm thick, it will dry in a few weeks if exposed to good airflow.

I can't help it, my job involves writing up the mistakes of people 'that have been doin it that way man n boy for 40 years'. So yes I am over cautious.

Creosote was banned for domestic use. So no (unless you get it by bending the rules, or buy a pretend 'creosote' that's not much use). Buy pre pressure treated timber like big-all suggests, don't cut corners. If you buy copper organic treated timber this does not need coating, though it looks...

You are correct nosall Myself and all the insulation, membrane and .gov sources on my link are wrong. Condensation will form on the surface of a warm VCL, you should warn the entire industry that their details are all wrong. :)

FYI that will stop programmes from loading at startup, they will still run as normal when you go to use them, so no reason to re-tick them.

In principle yes. I personally would not do it without some input from an engineer.

Click on the link, then you will see plenty of insulation and membrane manufacterer details show up with the exact detail I am describing. Again, I am not sure why you refuse to look at the linked results or that you think condensation will form on a vapour control layer within the warm side of...

Why don't you quote the full post woody with the link, or would that not suite your argument? It's not a theory, again try clicking the link and readings stuff (readinz is teh hard). The VCL goes on the warm side of the construction, not necessarily *directly* behind the plasterboard. Why do...

Do you mean it only does this when browsing or it's rubbish all the time? Close everything. Ctrl+Alt+Del Open task manager. Processes tab Look at general memory and CPU usage and see what if anything is taking up resources. You may have to click the 'show processes from all users' tab at...

Rubbish, plenty of details you can download on the net if you look showing plasterboard, 25mm battened out service void then VCL. The VCL needs to be within the warm side of the construction, not *immediatly* behind the plasterboard. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=service+void+and+vcl

What catleyx says is wrong. If the VCL is in front of the insulation (warm), then a gap in front of it will not cause condensation. Modern buildings sometimes have plasterboard, then a gap for services and then the VCL and insulation. The point of the VCL is to stop vapour transmission trhough...

pay a proffesional if you are too busy, don't waste your time with a freebie inspector as they will recomend preservative treatment regardless of the need. I still say it looks like a wasps nest. Also can't see how you are too busy to stab the timber with a screwdriver to see if it is sound.

You need to check the floorzone is not ventilated or it won't achieve anything (I would not have thought it was, but check). Otherwise yes it will work. Thicker the better, no right answer, depends on your budget really. Don't know about adhesives as I would mechanically fix up into the...

Looking into my crystal ball, I predict that they will recomend extensive n expensive treatment . (no such thing as free anything, they get a commision).

A roof has to withstand heavy windloads, if you can make it fall down with a screwdriver, get out :P Now go attack and poke it and see how sound the timber is. It may be dry or wet rot, or vegitation growth, not really my area of expertese and the pictures are low quality. Generally it doesnt...