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Fire doors usually come with specific instructions on how much they can be trimmed, or talk to jeld wen. Lot's of doors have composite cores and solid edging, so you can only remove X amount. X varies depending on the particular door.

'dry' rot still requires moisture. Give the timbers a good poke, are they sound. Are they dry. If so, don't worry about exactly what it is. Does look more like an old wasp nest to me, hard to tell from pics.

I see what woody is saying, but it is ass backwards pedantantry. Back in the real world more insulation will increase average wall surface temperatures. The OP's issue is likely crappy dense block walls where 50mm does not really cut it.

If in doubt = VCL, in your situation you can't go wrong putting one in. I also personally would VCL rather than tape, I am dubious the tapes will stand the test of time.

1. as others already said, determine the airbricks are for the floor or the cavity. 2. Insulation will reduce cold surfaces and should reduce condensation, however 50mm is not much and if they have left gaps that won't help (which may be the case if it is worse in particular corners). That you...

I don't like to be too alarmist, but tread carefully. The information provided so far seems to suggest it is neither a cold or warm roof, so done inproperly there is a risk of condensation within the structure. Time to ask questions.

Where is your ventillation, is there foil faced insulation above the OSB layer, in which case how do you think your ventillation layer is going to work? And how do brick purpends ventilate the area above the OSB, does it have a parapit wall detail? Is there insulation at the end above the wall...

If you are just going to board over it for level, then it does not matter to much if it is plywood/hardboard/mdf. There are slight differences, but at that thickness for this job it is rather much of a muchness. 6mm is a Okish, *good* plywood would be a bit stronger than MDF but 6mm is 6mm...

much of a muchness = would have thought it obvious, oh well, basically roll a die as you won't see any practical difference between those two materials at that thickness. At that thickness neither will provide any insulation benifit at all, they may only reduce air leakage.

fibreboard vs plywood for you specific use = much of a muchness.

Kitchen counter varnish / hardwearing and moisture resistant unless scratched, but once it is damaged it requires sanding it down and starting again. Oil / not hardwearing, not moisture resistant, but easier to patch repair pros and cons

Missing some details here. Condensation within the roof will be avoided by the aformentioned ventillation. Not insulating the sloping areas will not cause cold spots, they are already cold. I would argue to insulate them (do it properly), but can't see how it will cause problems if you don't...

Upgrade insulation to reduce cold surfaces = and therefore condensation and mould. Any uninsulated or poorly insulated surfaces will be prone to condensation without excessive ventillation, and even then still can be as shown in many case studies. Alternativly crank up the heat or run a...

The 'tea cosy' idea requires a heck of a lot more effort, not saying it is not worth it, but you need to be doing more than just putting insulation all around. The roof does not need to be ventillated if it has a suitable membrane (not the black felt you typically see in lofts). A lot of...

Warm air into cold spaces = risk of condensation. Probabably fine if the garage is quite air leaky, but not the best idea.

Technicall yes, unlikely to be an actual risk IMO.

Yes, as the cavity then becomes an internal area. Whilst it might still act as a 'heat chimney' it is still only moving warm air within the insulated building. It's a question of how you seal up the 'tea cosy' so that the wall/roof junction does not become a cold bridge/air leakage point. As...

25mm of insulation does not seem worth effort to me. Forget the monetary cost, the main 'cost' in your example is your time spent doing the job. Why spend days doing a job to add only 25mm. I personally would add 50mm direct to the wall between 'studs', 25mm over that (so as to reduce cold...

Don't see any reason to remove them as long as they provide a reasonably flat surface.

The creaking is typically because there is give or unevenness to the substrate, is this the case? MDF instead of plywood would be fine, it is the thickness that matters in that 8mm of anything will only be strong enough even out small dips or lips.