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On the odd occasion my hangers have been too long so I've fitted them to the wall plate before putting the wall plate on the wall so that they wrap down the back of the plate too. Ever encountered that? I wonder if my method is OTT compared to buying smaller hangers or cutting the excess off.

I can't see how you'd ever get a block in. It only looks like a 20mm deep recess to me.

In the back like this more modern one:

That's my thinking too - and the thermal bridging seems much worse, not to mentioning hitting steel when you want to put up a curtain pole.

What kind of lintel is this? If you look closely, it's not possible to set a block in at the back, and yet it appears to be a cavity lintel. I don't see it on the Catnic site any more, so is this an obsolete type of cavity lintel from before the thermal design was improved, or are they still...

450mm is a popular choice. Enough room for 2 courses of blocks inner, and 6 of bricks on the outer skin.

100mm hardcore, 50mm blind but in reality it's 35 to 50 depending due to slight undulations on the hardcore.

You may be right but I was asked to include one in an extension 8 years ago so have been doing it ever since. Note that this is a 'insulation under slab' scenario. Does that make a difference? The BCO mentioned the mesh that he saw when he inspected yesterday, so he'll expect to see it on the...

I'm pouring a 100mm slab that's 4.7M by 5.0M. The slab is on 100mm PIR insulation. My spec has A142 mesh, but I've found that I've only order two sheets of 2M by 3.6M. With a 100mm overlap that would give me mesh coverage of roughly 3.6M by 3.8M, with an unmeshed border of 50cm all round. Is...

2 inch wide braces for me too.

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to hold off weighing in my three buckets of scrap for a while.

Oh blimey I hadn't seen those. The eaves tiles look beautifully saggy too.

If they were into cutting corners with the dry verge and ridge then I wonder why they didn't go dry valley too?

My house is built like this too. During the last demolishion I discovered that they were cast in situ with rebar, including butterfly ties between every ~4th soldier and the cast lintel.

That would be my approach. Are there any neighbours, are they friendly? I think Cummins just demonstrated that sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

I seem to remember Tony talking about a job once where they're screwed and glued rafters directly beneath the existing, effectively 'upgrading' them. It might be an approach that suits your situation. I'm sure he'll be along soon.

Isn't a 2.1m span within spec for a 2x4? Admittedly with a birds mouth for the purlin in the middle they'll be weak but you could sister up to mitigate that.

Insulation is bidirectional, like a thermos that you can use for both icy drink and hot chocolate. In my current house the older 1960s loft areas are baking hot in the summer due to the heat soak off the black roof tiles and lack of insulation to protect the bedrooms from it. If you're already...