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Hello, make sure theres not too much of a fall on the wastes and its causing them to self siphon. If it is then it might be worth fitting anti-siphon traps? just an idea

One other point to mention is that the stopcock also needs to be 750mm from an outside wall or be suitably lagged to provide frost protection. The pipe should be 762mm deep (2'6"). At least in an ideal world but gives you a bit of a guide as to what your aiming for. cheers

Morning, Just an aside from the main topic but noticed the floor tiles - it would be worthwhile getting them checked for asbestos as its quite common in those tiles. Just before you start breaking the floor up. cheers

It looks like you have a positive head shower pump that requires a natural flow of water to keep the flow switches lifted. It seems that when the shower head is attached, its slowing down that natural flow. My advice would be to either change the shower head to one that's not say, a...

Have you got any non return valves in the pipework or the unit that could be sticking?

Just out of curiosity, Without being seen to be advertising have you considered a pump? Obviously may not prove worthwhile if you are fitting a combi soon but its just another option for you. regards ken

Im not allowed to be seen to be advertising but a well known manufacturer of pumps has a boost for the home that may be suitable. regards ken :roll:

To be honest with you, i have never fitted a shower tray without tiling secondso im not really able to comment but I imagine that it would be a nightmare to keep it secure and sealed afterwards when you just have a silicone seal. Any movement would break the seal. It may be that someone else has...

Good Morning, Usually you would cut the showertray into the wall/plasterboard by 10mm or so and then tile down to the tray which helps to create the seal around the base - usually a small bead of silicone would then suffice after tilling. It looks like it shows the tray being cut in on the...

Many thanks for the vote of confidence - always good to hear positive feedback. cheers :lol:

Good morning, Thats correct, a turbine in the pump will spin at a varying degree depending how many L/min is going through the pump. This is translated in the PCB on the pump to tell it how fast to turn, therefore maintaining 12l/min at the outlet of the pump. You need over 3l/min to initiate...

is there any chance you could be running into negative head or close to the bottom of the cold water tank?

Have you got gravity hot and cold or gravity hot and mains cold?

Hi, It wouldnt do any harm and would help in the event of someone turning another hot in the tap on in the hose and the shower going a bit cooler. Its not necessary but would help. cheers

just to correct how that sounds - i mean that there is a possibility the cylinder is overpressurising itself as the water heats.

It does not look like there is a vent or at least a very restricted one. Little possibility that the cylinder is overpressurising itself?

Karis, Nice to hear some positive feedback and some sound advice, much appreciated thanks. cheers

No problem, To be honest with you, yes, they do need to be followed as to ensure the pump works well and has the lifespan expected for a pump. If they are not followed the pump probably would not fail immediately but would fail prematurely. They may seem strict but a descent plumber would...

I would have to agree that fitting the pump at the base of the hot water cylinder is the best location for it with a suitable top entry flange fitted to your cylinder. With regards to the instructions, I would try to make yourself familiar with them even before the plumber installs the pump...

Good morning, Dont worry about that, we will stick around as long as we can. cheers