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Yes, I guess that makes sense, thanks. So I guess the door knobs are sprung, as well as the latches?

Thanks for the link, but the 4" tubular latches shown are all heavy duty latches. Would they be suitable for normal door knobs?

Any advice on which latches I need please? I've bought some 3" tubular latches for my new internal doors and door knobs, but the 3" latches put the knobs too close to the door frames (see photo below, compared to my current knobs) so I need 4" latches. The shop I bought my 3" latches from say...

Just been searching for places selling authentic Victorian door knobs, not how I expected my Sunday to go :) The Beehive ones look quite nice..

I'll keep them the same, otherwise when the door is open both knobs/handles will be visible.

They would perhaps look nice, my hallway has lots of original 1039 features. However the rooms on the other side are more modern. Is it acceptable to have different handles/knobs on each side fo the door? Or am I overthinking this??? Still in decorating stage...

Thanks Boxster1, I'll phone the door shop tomorrow and have a chat with them, and hopefully place my order. Spent all day yesterday looking at all the options of handles/knobs, positioning etc. Also, I believe I need 3 x 3" ball bearing hinges per door?

I think you are right. Im getting two of those 1930's doors put in my hallway, but a third door next to them that leads into the kitchen I want glazed, and will maybe go for one of the two doors shown below. I'm just hoping the door style will allow a knob 3" away from the edge so I don't catch...

Im wanting to get some of these 1930's internal doors fitted in my 1930's house, but Im struggling to decide whether door knobs or lever handles look best, and whether to position them higher up by the mid rail, or at the lower standard height on the style? I think knobs look better on this...

Yes, or in the Diddy Mens house.

Thanks, my rad is 1800mm tall, and the instructions say they are needed above 100mm tall. I assume water will pass through the gaps, but most will be directed upwards then?

Is a radiator diverter supposed to form a seal inside? My new vertical radiator comes with a spring diverter to divert the water upwards, but when inserted into the rad it doesn't exactly seal when in place, there are gaps around it where water could pass. Is this normal?

Not that it matters, but he's busy and hasn't got time to fit it to the wall himself, so the only way I can get into connect it up anytime soon is if its already fitted to the wall and ready for him to run the pipes to, and connect.

Yes but I want to get it right so he doesn't have to.

Sadly its not labelled, but I've found some instructions online that says the red cap is the top of the rad. Next questions - does the TRV fit on the 'flow' side of a rad, along with the spring diverter? Is flow the same as inlet? Also, would the bleed valve normally go on the opposite side of...

I know it hangs on brackets, as I've got to fit them, but I'm asking which way up the rad goes as I have to fit it to the wall before the plumber comes.

Just bought a 3 column Ecorad vertical radiator and TRV which I have to get fitted to my wall before my plumber comes to connect it up. It's not obvious to me which way up it needs fitting, both ends have plastic caps fitted, however one end has a red cap. Would this be the bottom end of the...

Thanks for the detailed information, looking at the Bahco Barracuda 244+ I notice they also do the Bahco 244 Hardpoint Laminator saw. I'll get one of them ordered and may also order the T101BIF & T101AOF jigsaw blades as well as they will be useful to have.

Which blades/saws are best for cutting Quickstep Impressive laminate flooring? I have a Makita cordless circular saw and jigsaw, any recommendations for correct blades please? Or a good hand saw to use? Thanks.

This BPS ladder looks good, and has a 300kg limit which is more than most. But its also dearer than most. https://www.laddersandscaffoldtowers.co.uk/acatalog/Grand-Wooden-Loft-Ladders.html