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well there you go! you're not as useless as you sound

nothing, it gives me the basic layout of the system cheers

yeah yeah, you can be quiet now, some people on here are willing to help me out

cheers for that mate, some helpful advice at last

pretensioners won't stop you plugging the seat belt in, i'd suggest scrappy, won't be that much

it all depends if theres slack in the cable or if the shoes need adjusting/replacing how far does the handbrake come up before it feels like its doing something?

what was the point of that? if i knew what i was doing i would do it and not bother you with a question, i obviously don't know what i'm doing, i know it would be easy if i knew what i was doing so thats why i asked for some guidence on what needs to be replaced etc anymore pointless comments...

hey all, i have recently bought a salamander ct50 shower pump and want to fit it myself, i also need to move my coldwater tank from above my hot water cylinder and fit it in the loft, are these 2 jobs easy enough for a competant diyer? i want a 50 gallon tank in the loft, which should fit...

hey all, just after a bit of advice really, i have bought a new consumer unit and would like to know which circuits my rcd should protect, i have 8 circuits - upstairs ring, downstairs ring, kitchen ring, upstairs lights, downstairs lights, cooker, garage, and immersion/shower pump. i know...

cheers adam so as long as i plug the hood into a socket it will be ok cos the plug has a fuse in it, same with the washing machine for the light i have 3 core pvc flex which was used for a car, will it be ok to use it for 240v instead of 12v? it doesn't say its specific for 12v

well done! you've gone and confused me now 1. wheres the reference tread? 2. can i use 1.5 or 2.5 t&e to go to the light or does it have to be special stuff? 3. the cooker, if i include it in the ring do i still need a switched fcu? i've done the same for the washing machine point...

cheers mate, big help So i can't take the feed for the bathroom fan off the lighting so it comes on with the lights? or will i need a second switch or a fan that is sensor controled so it comes on when it thinks it needs to? for the light outside, is it best to spur off the kitchen ring to...

Hi hope you can help, my re wire is going well thanks to all your help on here, just a quicky though I want to put wiring in for a cooker hood in the kitchen (obviously), an extractor fan in the bathroom and an outside light which will be switched from inside (without movement sensor)...

that is a handy little tool!! cheers mate

cheers mate am i also right in thinking that i will have to run a seperate earth to the shower and cooker?

you can't find your aerial? maybe its in the boot, ford did try and hide them at one point. It would indeed mean there is a loose or dirty earth somewhere but rather than ripping your dash apart to find it it would be quicker to make a new one 30cm or so from where the radio is

cheers mate I was told to go for 2mm (probably meant 2.5mm) because halogen lights when starting draw more current but if 1.5mm is ok i'll ok for that Also what does OSG mean? Better book a couple of weeks off work so i can get all this reading done!! :shock:

can i run the shower and emmersion on the same 10mm? what size earth bonding do i need? is 1.5mm ok for the lights or should i go for 2mm because i want halogen lights? how do you work out how much power a cable can take> is there a table to work it out? cheers for the help guys

the main aerial connection is wherever the aerial is, if its a screw in aerial (beesting) it will be a screw fit - make sure its properly screwed in (normally on the roof or wing) if its the retractable type on the wing, look under the wing and have a feel around and you should be able to feel...

most probably, whats it on? common on ford's have you checked the tightness of the aerial and its connections?