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Thanks for the reply. The windows are Anglian uPVC double glazed units, less than 5 years old. Outside sill is made from sloping tile and all seems in good condition, plenty of sealant around all joins. I 'spose that only leaves the paint, if its lifted slightly I suspect it might be...

Only the left side has blown, missing plaster on right hand side was just loose, not damp.

Its bubbled away from the wall, hitting it with your fist results in it falling off the wall. I removed the blown part but the dampness extends into the 'good' plaster slightly. This is just the finishing plaster, the render or filling plaster underneath is still solid.

I've decorating/renovating a c.1895 terraced house, solid wall construction. In the rear upstairs bedroom we have two damp patches which have resulting in the plaster blowing, about 20cm diameter, one under each end of the window sill, above the ends of the radiator. Window is double glazed...

Thanks :)

Thanks Daytona. Steve, it wasn't just a little flicker, it was flashing on and off rapidly, to full brightness. But thanks for the input anyway, all appreciated :) Also, when I mentioned incandescent I was making a guess at what an incandescent would have done in the same situation...it...

Can anyone else confirm whether or not RCD is needed for hardwiring an outside light? Mine will probably be fed from bathroom light fitting, switched from dining room.

Hi, A few days ago I replaced the ceiling roses and light switches in one bedroom and the landing. Everything seemed fine, the following day I replaced the remaining rose and switch in the second bedroom. Appeared fine until we went to bed, when we discovered that when we turned the landing...

Thanks for the tip :)

So those drain plugs go in the F+E tank just like the conical ones I got for the same price from B&Q? And they'll seal against the two ridges? I spose one there is an airlock they will hold tight whilst we mess around extending the pipework?

We are having a window knocked into a door so need to relocate the rad that is under the window. Got someone from my family coming to help do it. I nearly got around all this by getting some of those rubber bungs that creates an airlock, but I took them back as the feed pipe from my tank as...

I've got to drain again in a week or two so I can relocate a radiator so inhibitor can go in then unless you think its important to have it asap?

on the rad, looks like a spot of rust on the underside. Not leaking at all at the moment.

Also, when I add the inhibitor do I just dump it in the tank in the loft or will this take ages for it to circulate?

Ok all well apart from one rad which is struggling to get warm, was fine a couple of days ago. Have closed of other rads which seems to be helping but have also noticed I have a very small leak from the rad, about 1" from the valve. Over the last couple of days it looks like it has leaked a...

Yep pipes are hot both sides and rads are warming...I've partly close the valves on two rads as they are getting quite warm but others further away are still cool...lockshield valves and the rads I removed are set to their original positions.

Central heating is taking its time, I assume hot water has priority? CH pump is as hot as the pipework, almost too hot to touch...is that normal?

Fingers crossed... I've got a mountain of washing up to do :(

OK still no luck with the boiler this morning so moved the auto valve to manual, drained down and refilled, bleeding rads and then bleeding CH pump of air. Fired the thing up, nothing happened hot water wise for the first 15 minutes but now have hot water circulating thru the cylinder :) My...

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