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Where does that 400mm come from?

Never mind the step, surely there's some regulation about that wallpaper!!

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If this building is listed, you need to be careful as to what you take on.

With that basement to do a proper job you really need to consider tanking up the walls and across the floor, with a pumped drainage system. That is the only way to do a permanent job on it without any future problems. The white furry stuff is salts, a sure sign of dampness.

Two 47 x 200 C24 screwed together would be fine - no need for a steel plate.

The arch will be ok to support the outer 'skin' of the wall and there will be a timber lintel supporting the inner part. Why bother changing them?

It wouldn't need to comply with current regs, but I would have thought that it is not permissible to undertake any work which makes the current situation with regard to fire safety and means of escape any worse. Yes, 2-storey can have open plan but normally with escape windows upstairs. If the...

One of the reasons they normally bolt to the web of the beam (or as near to the web as possible as in your case) is to avoid torsion increasing the bending stress on the main beam. The detail you have 'offsets' the load, so putting a twisting effect on the beam. But its commonly done because...

Does it need to achieve 30 mins?

9.5 mm plasterboard would do. Easier/iighter to fix than 12.5.

I know it seems counter-intuitive but the weight on the cantilevered part will not bear down on the window as much as it might appear. This is because the weight on the longer span causes the 2.4m part to deflect downwards. This causes an upward 'hogging' moment over garage/hall wall, which in...

If your plan drawing is to scale as regards the supported and unsupported lengths, the load at the end of the cantilevered part may well be zero.?

Correct - the quantity of heat lost via the glazing will be far greater than that through the metal bridging. But the point is that that small area of bridging will attract condensation bringing localised dampness and possible mould growth.

Yes, as long as the span and loading aren't too great because angles can of course twist.

How would you insulate effectively inside the section? The top and bottom flanges will still be cold bridges. More generally, many inexperienced SEs specify these (expensive) box sections in these situations. They do it because the outer skin pressing down on the projecting bottom plate causes...

1. On the wall issue your builder is correct; 'aac' blocks crack verrtically, and also don't have good adhesion to mortar. Losing 2" is a good tade off for a better job. 2. For the roof, again go for a traditional 'cut' roof. Probably cheaper than ordering trusses as well - depending on your...

On that advice, two problems spring to mind: 1. cold- bridging causing condensation, damp and ultimately mould spores on the inner face of the bridging padstones and 2. Possibility of rain penetration across the cavity. Email your SE on these points, but don't hold your breath waiting for a...

Your SE should have detailed this for you. As you have no 'nib', presumably you are using a spreader? (you can cut one from a length of 140 x 100 concrete lintel). What length the spreader needs to be depends on the load the beam is supporting and the compressive strength of the materials of...

You need to post a few pics - hard to understand what's going on.