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What you are proposing would be a recipe for disaster - don't attempt it. Water vapour will get through the inevitable gaps in the ceiling (water vapour is very penetrative and there's always plenty in a kitchen), will rise up through the gaps between the PIR and rafters, then condense on the...

Cut an 8" long by 0.25" deep notch each side of the plumber's cut-out. Get some 30 x 5 steel straps from the builder's merchants (or B&Q/ Wickes etc). They are pre-drilled with lots of holes. Cut appropriate lengths of strip and screw down with three 50mm x 5 or 6mm screws each side of the...

The 203 beam you're considering would fine as long as you don't load the floor up with cylinder blocks and gearboxes. What would you use as posts? 100 x 100 box section maybe?

If you're using the ceiling for light storage, I can't see why you can't sit the UB on the existing single-skin walls. If the loads are not too heavy, you can dispense with padstones and set the beam on steel plates as spreaders - this could avoid messy cutting out of brickwork. If you tell...

Absolutely not a problem. The reduced bearing length plus chamfer could easily be shown to work.

I've often wondered why - if an amendment is 'non-material' - it should need an application?

Out of level by that much not an issue. Neither is 80mm bearing - chimney loads are actually quite small, relatively speaking, due to the bonding of the brickwork. Nice splices btw. Hopefully they supplied the correct grade of bolts?

As the extension seems to be over 6m long and beyond the rear wall, that would not be p.d and would need planning permission..

As it looks horizontal and unless my ageing eyes are deceiving me, that's not a chase, its a partial demolition.

:LOL:

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Just taking a sabaaaaaaaaaaatical.

If you wrap it round the back of the rearmost wall, it would need planning permission as presumably it would be more than half the width of the house?

It would help no end if the would-be apprentices could also speak English as well as Polish.....

Bolting the bottom flange to the padstone doesn't add much to wind resistance. Of more importance is the connection between the top of the windpost and the underside of the beam. It would also be better if the windpost itself could be bolted back to the wall (eg with welded lugs) but no fixings...

At present 4m is the limit without going down the neighbour consultation route, but there are proposals to increase this to 5m for detached houses. Might be worth waiting to see if/when this proposal comes in. A consultation (now closed) was put out in February so we don't know how the new...

A 305 x 305 on that span was ridiculous. There is the smaller option of a 254 x 254 which would have done, or even a 203 x 203 with a 250 x 6 plate tack-welded on top to pick up the cavity wall. To specify a 305 x 305 for domestic loading on that span is not engineering, its just lazyness. But...

If the builder is flummoxed as to why that keeps happening, he needs to get a different job.

If your house is 2-bed with a truss roof, presumably its a relatively modern terrace- or semi-detached house, right? Truss roofs are not the easiest to convert, but it can be done. In that case, a dormer loft conversion would probably need four steel beams - one for the ridge, and three for...

So whatever is above will drop 1mm at that end? :giggle: Your house won't fall down!