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Thanks for the reply. The complete fittings will be a squeeze at best. Only brought the ceiling down about 6" as didn't want it to look as if it was sat on the top of the window frames. I didn't think 240v. dimmable LED needed a driver - it has some circuitry built in, or is that a mini...

Thanks guys for the helpful replies. A good idea to test the circuits before final fix. I agree that a large ceiling can end up looking like a landing strip so will be leaving two pendants in place. Also agree that the complete lamp and fitting would be a handy solution. Problem with that is if...

Thanks for getting back, So you are saying that if I got a non dimmable led bulb I would still need a driver for each lamp + dimmer module and switch - not priced the dimmers but it looks as though it's probably six and two threes, so easier to find a suitable led dimmable bulb. Presumably if...

Many thanks for the reply. The kitchen will be a kitchen/diner so wanted to dim some of the lights, switch some off, and have some feature lights. Probably over egging the pudding. I did think of the GU10 dimmable + dimmer though these are more expensive and I need 20 so was wondering if...

Hope someone can help I am doing an extensive refurbishment of my kitchen including lowering the ceiling. The room dimension is L 24 ft. (7metres) x W 12 ft. (3.6 metres) x H 10 ft (3.2 metres) approx. I want to fit dimmable LED down lights on separate circuits so they can be...

Thanks for the info. I can't remember the last time I used 95 deg. wash - 60 degs. is generally my max. As I'm re-doing kitchen I will certainly look into that. Mike

Thanks The831Bunny and Tony. Did as instructed - changed wire to T1, changed micro switch - no change. This morning took out and overhauled water valve and now all working again. So a big, big thank you. All the best ('till next time). Mike

will check all that - enjoy the beach. Mike

Hi Tony, No frost stat or external stats fitted - only TRV,s Mike

Thanks so much for getting back. Ran HT for 30 secs, turned it off - boiler still on. Put heating switch to off and boiler stopped firing and gunning. Pre heat switch on/off makes no difference. Mike

Hoping that Bunnyman and The831Bunny can help me again. (Nice to know you got it sorted Mike. If there's anything in the future, just shout me or Bunnyman.) The boiler "WE" fixed together is working fine after replacing water valve and flow switch. But now the other boiler is playing...

Just fitted new water valve all working fine. On stripping old one the pin was definitely seized and filter had no mesh. Don't know how I was getting HW & CH. New stuffing box, filter and diaphragm - a good spare. Would like to give a big 'thank you' to 831 and Bunnyman for their help...

First thanks for getting back. I had to raise the plate slightly to see the spindle, definitely not flush but not raised enough at that stage to operate the MS. I did run the hot tap for a while and then switched CH on and all worked well. Switched off, left it and switched on again, still...

UPDATE: After putting it back together (PCB looked fine, no watermarks), switched on boiler and it fired up. The timer was on constant so just tried it in OFF and boiler switched off! Tried it on timed and it's all working again. Could it have been a dry joint? Rather than feeling delighted...

Hi The831Bunny. Removed cover as per your instructions. The area around the pin is quite scaly (white powdery) and, if anything, appears stuck down as only about 2mm showing. Gentle up with small screwdriver on contact spring operates MS's. Pin doesn't move. I think you say that with boiler...

Ouch! Where exactly is the clamping screw, is it the small one center directly under CB and could I WD40 it? Sounds like a job for my gold plated Snap On! Mike

Brilliant, thanks for that. After reading agile (Tony's) reply have been looking at how I could see pin move! After close inspection and an hour or so reading every post 'water section' was beginning to think it must involve looking inside CB. Will report back. I do appreciate all the help.

Thanks for getting back. Thanks Bunnyman for red micro info. and as you said at the start, pointing to water section that I will look at tomorrow In meantime reassemble timer, and getting gray base on is a pig. thebunny831 You seem to agree. To the layman what's S1, PPII, and OP? 'water...

Thanks both of you. Reading the posts have done voltage tests again with timer removed and from wire end. T4 to T5 - 233 V T4 (wire end) to T5 97 volts. Rad switch on, HW r/w triangle down, boiler fires up with T4 removed. Made a rapid 'tocking' sound for few secs on start up...

Thanks for getting back. Hope you enjoyed the gala. First apologies, the black wire goes to II not III as I previously said; this has not been disturbed. Voltage from T4 (wire removed) to T5 is reading 228 volts. Your help much appreciated. I have to go out again but will check in...