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If they will consider needing more space then the space standard is 124sqm for a 4 bedroom 8 person dwelling. I don't know how big your house is but if over this size the argument may be difficult to argue in any case.

They wouldn't usually consider it at all. There are only space/extending arguments/allowances for say adding things like accessible toilets as the argument is clearer why they are needed (but they may still expect you to reconfigure instead of extend). But simply "needing" more space more more...

If you get a chance to discuss with an officer you can acknowledged the policy, but be clear it is not a rule. There is flexibility stated in planning law that makes clear no policy need to be blanket applied and that each application should be considered on its merits and impact etc. - I.e...

Assuming the D&B company also did the surveying then they are responsible for everything - from your point of view it doesn't really matter who within their company is at fault (let them argue amongst themselves). As its less than the suggested clearances in the regulations I'd say its not...

To get a better understanding on this could you confirm the clearances by photographing/sketching and annotating, or supplying the construction drawing. Clearance measured from the step nose to the ceiling/bulkhead on either side and in the middle would be most useful and also the width of the...

Could you clarify approximately when the other extensions were built, whether any of them were granted planning or have pre-existing LDCs. and the approximate external widths and depths of each. You may be able to extend up to 6m using the prior notification route (and hope no neighbour...

To clarify how "Building Regs" work, the regulation in debate here is K1 which states: (page 3 of Part K 2013). The pages that then follow the regulation provide guidance and show a way of demonstrating compliance with the above regulation, but they are not regulations themselves. The...

Before/after plans would help comment further, but as long as you have separation from the hall/stairs and fire doors to habitable rooms this is sufficient. For dwellings spinklers are usually only required when 3 storeys or more and an open stairs say to a living room. Why are they requesting...

Also worth nothing that when the fan is not on some air will still rise through the pipe (albeit only a little amount and slowly). However, if you have a downward section air will "sit" in this section (a bit like water sits in a toilet u-bend) and consequently have more time to cool down than...

The pipe should continually rise - with the room side being the lowest and the external side the highest. If you insulate/lag around the pipe this will help minimise the chance of condensation forming (as it will keep the pipe surface and the air warmer until the air goes out the building).

If the existing house is solid wall cosntruction rather than cavity I would advise against cement render and instead suggest lime render is used. Once/when cement render cracks any water that tracks into the wall will be trapped and solid walls will become damp and you will get mould growth...

I'm not sure they can force you to move it, but they prefer them outside for practical reasons (e.g. taking readings and repair/replacement work) - only real benefit to you is that you don't have to be home in future when they need access, but the disruption this will cause doesn't really...

Looking at the picture supplied I would expect a ~30cm flexible pipe to be located somewhere. It is often left connected at one end to a valve/tap. If the above is the case you will need to unscrew the cap pictured, connect the flexible pipe and open the valve/tap above as well as a valve that...

The previously linked to Part M Regs document is no longer current. The latest is: https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/540330/BR_PDF_AD_M1_2015_with_2016_amendments_V3.pdf Cat M4(1) pages 4-9 is most applicable. Page 7 shows the information you require on...

A Doggit said, the warmth of the room just enables the air to hold more moisture. The warmth does not remove the moisture and it will still be in the house. As the warmer air mixes with the cooler air from elsewhere the humidity of the whole house will increase which will increase the risk of...

The role of different consultants will depend on what you have paid them to do, but if you appointed an Architect first, and they are providing "full services" then usually they would be the person you contact for all queries. However, based on your queries I assume you may have gone for more...

A quick check using this calculator (https://www.cba-blocks.org.uk/u-value-calculator/) confirms the following meets 0.28: Brick externally, 25mm residual cavity, 40mm Thin-R (0.022 lambda), Lightweight Block (0.14), plasterboard on dabs. If you want a fully filled 65mm cavity, with brick...

I've never specified Dritherm 32 but a quick search shows it has a thermal conductivity / lambda of 0.032 W/mK. Kingspan Kooltherm 106 is one of the current best on the market and gets down to 0.018 lambda - although think its thinnest availability is 80mm with a 10mm residual clear cavity so...

You could use a higher spec insulation and making the cavity slimmer. to match the wall thickness to existing. Or as others have said you could board the wall out (or even insulate on internal face then board). Insulating the existing walls is probably worth doing even if you don't have - its...

If you are in a conservation area / their is an article 4 direction to remove PD then you may still need planning (also assumed not but if the building is listed then listed building consent would be required). As tony1851 said structural alterations will require a new beam and need inspecting...