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Thanks for all your responses on this guys...I only thought it'd be a yes/no answer! I can't believe I pay to have a consumer unit replaced which was effectively compliant many many years ago (I presume), only to be non-compliant now! Jeez... You are correct in assuming that the shower is...

My thoughts exactly. Isolation switch is staying where it is. MCB isn't being replaced. One final question. The bathroom has a flat roof. The electrician said that he needs to cut holes in the ceiling to tap into the lighting circuit for the extractor fan. I know this is standard practice but...

Cheers for the quick response. The 6mm cable runs in conduit for about 4-5 metres of the run and about 10 metres in uninsulated ceiling space between upstairs and downstairs. Good to know I'm not overloading the cable. (I'd love to upgrade to shower but I'm not going to) Should the 32amp...

Hi guys, About 2 months ago I used a reputable electrician/company to replace an old Wylex fuse board with a new consumer unit. We've got a 8.5kW electric shower which is fed from a 6mm^2 cable which, if I remember correctly, was connected to a 30amp fuse. This has now been replaced with a...

I will have to check when I take the face plates off again. I just presumed that it was all 2.5mm in a ring circuit but I may be wrong. I presume 2.5mm would indicate a ring, and 4mm would indicate a radial? I like the idea of the grid arrangement (although that would only give me one more...

I forgot to ask...if the first spur was 4mm T&E, not 2.5mm then it would be fine without any changes, wouldn't it? At no point would I be able to overload the cable. I'm presuming it's 2.5mm but I will check some time this week. Just curious.

Cheers all, that's a great help. Dremel eh? Any excuse to get a new tool in the armoury... Paul.

Hi all, I was changing some sockets over the weekend and noticed that one double socket which was already a spur, had another spur coming off to another double socket. Now I know this is wrong even though it's been this way for the last 20+ years, and can be corrected by putting an FCU before...

Quote from a little old gas man who used to do our last home's boiler a couple of years ago - £70 (service & t/c). Cheers Tony - almost spot on! Not worth getting my hands burnt for that price!

Duly noted. Will leave it to the experts. How much do you reckon the pros charge on average for service and replacing the thermocouple? Am I looking in excess of £100? Is it advisable to take out British Gas's cheapest HomeCare package for £12 a month?

Cheers mate. When I look at my boiler controls I have the thermostat on the left, the ignition next to it, then the gas valve. Just to the right of the gas valve is what I think is the thermocouple (piccie from internet->...

Hi, I have a 30(?) year old Glow-Worm Space Saver 38 boiler which, for the last 10 months (when I moved in) has been totally fine. With all the strong wind recently I've noticed that the pilot light has gone out a lot but I've always been able to relight it and carry on as normal. Last...

Hi, I've recently moved into a 30 year old house which current has a warm loft. The insulation is up against the roof with plasterboard keeping it put. I understand that there needs to be a gap between the insulation and the roof felt and I have no reason to suspect that this wasn't done...

I thought the flow was different to what it actually was. I convinced myself that it was wrong and set about changing it. I was basically a muppet. At least I know how to correct it. Shouldn't take me long... :oops: Can anyone see anything wrong with how the old system would have ran? Are...

In my previous post I described how I've messed with my current CH & HW system to make it fully pumped (S plan). I think I've messed up a perfectly good system but it is totally undo-able. What I need to know is from the following information would the old system have worked successfully so I...

right gas_man_gaz, another diagram... http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=9071&l=278af&id=544791297 this is definately how the old system was piped up. when HW only was called the HW valve opened, the pump started running, and the boiler fired - although the valve was knackered so...

impressive! i particularly like your use of colour.... on your diagram though you have valves and pump before HW tank/coil and rads (your typical s plan). is it quite feasible to have them after? in other words, does my original system make sense?! :D

no photos of old system i'm afraid! that would have been way too easy. can take photos of *******ised system tomorrow. "more and more diagrams popping up". it's actually like watching the penny drop, isn't it?

there's no reason why the valves can't be after each system is there? they only stop and start the flow, so that can be after the rads and HW coil can't they - just like the pump...

It's obvious now. The water from the boiler will be teed off to both the HW tank and the CH valve, won't it? Therefore you can have them totally independent of each other as well as together. That's why all the controls and stuff operates the way they do. Am I right?