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I work in cambridge and use camtile quite alot for reclaimed stuff. Unfortunately they dont make tiles anymore. Try a grovebury, mendip or sandtoft double pan.

Ha ha ree the doom bringer! Your roofs been mullered and your gable end could potentially be structurally unsound. Really gotta love this guy.

Looks like the roughcasters were sent instead of the roofers! Cant understand how plastering the roof would be more beneficial or even quicker than stripping the verge and nailing / clipping the tiles!

A skeiling ! I like that 8) .

Ahh I see. Thats a token from the insurance company! Like I said though you have more play with the bedded system. Hopefully the dry system gives yous many years maintenance free :wink: .

You get a little bit more play when bedded in cement. Or maybe it was 1/3rd round to hald round on the original. The picture qualities not great on a phone of your first picture. The original hip and ridge didnt look in bad condition. Why the change?

You get a little bit more play when bedded in cement. Or maybe it was 1/3rd round to hald round on the original. The picture qualities not great on a phone of your first picture. The original hip and ridge didnt look in bad condition. Why the change?

Try asphaltic diamond rd norwich m8.

No. Id think theres a 3/4 inch cement joint at the mitres. So the ridge arent sitting on the hip tiles. Thats not why the kicks there. If its the gap between first and second ridge thats concerning you, get the roofer to angle the first ridge at the joint to square it up. I can assure you though...

The only way to get the mitre section level is to change the ridge on the hips to 3rd round hip tiles. Which isnt really waranted due to it being water tight plus will cost a great deal more money. Only other possibility is take the dry system off the ridge line and bed with cement to make the...

The redland 49 is the same as the marley equivalent of ludlow plus. Id think the universal dry verge would work. Failing that a cut edge tile isnt the end of the world providing its cut straight.

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ha ha. Americans like to exaggerate :mrgreen:

Maybe your well educated ree, but your still a donkey that does roofs! Education and use of big words aint commonly associated with roofers! The main factor is sealing a roof! You talk a good job. You also bring a whole new meaning to slating a roof. Go stick your felt shingles down and watch...

The fronts remedial work I believe ree, im shocked you hadnt noticed! Make your own mind up about the back! new bricks have been fitted on the chimney and re pointed. Could that be the cause of the effloresence? We already have a noseall on this forum . Who is generally 99% correct with what he...

Tbh I believe it .will be ok. It will need fixed at some point though.

The problems due to when the verge was ran the battens were n't cut back far enough for the overhang. Re-pointing it would result in the same problem re-occuring further down the line. The fix is to strip the verge and have the battens cut back by an inch or so. Realisticly it shouldn't cost any...

Well ree, its just aswell im not paid to spell isnt it. By the look of it the vegetation is growing out a non exististent piece of lead where the coping stones meets the back of the chimney. Which isnt technically a back gutter now is it? And effloresence is water and salts read up on google it...

Awrite yanky! The vegetations not good though is it. And efflorecense is nout to do with water damage.

Looking at the interior picture the water ingress is more than likely due to the back of the chimney where the vegetations growing.