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Thats impressive. Atleast your car will stay dry.

Should be ok. You ll need to get the same size though. Think there 18 x9s.

Penrhyn ( purple welsh) as said. Brazillian repairs by the look of it. Your eaves are brazillian laid side on also . Which has brought some bond on bond.

Nps m8, the websites a challenge ! But there decent tiles ;).

Imerys do similar ish patterns but clay.

Is that a carp I see? Dont know about a roof , but its a fine looking pond .

Need pictures of the detail your describing. Lead under is usually always better than lead over.

Sadolin.

Nostalgia salvage sells them for £4.97 a pop! Didnt see anything saying thats supplied and fitted though :/. 49s are more realistic if possible unless the customers a millionaire.

Dressing it in situ you ll more than likely always split the lead. You need measurements, a bevel ( for the rake of the roof) . Then dress it on a bench. Get a can of spinach aswell as you need arms like popeye.

Google repco tiles m8. They do obsolete moulds.

Lol . They need a challenge to justify their 200 a day ;).

This is true m8, and im not trying to question your knowledge. With hotels youve usually got a valley returning to a gable end dormer where the highest point is the verge. Then just past the valley theres a downpipe which makes the notching do-able. Would you use grp on a new welsh roof?

I agree with your comments and im not a lead purist. Grp valleys do save alot of time and labour but I believe lead has a longer lifespan! If you notch the fascia leads not needed to start the valley.

Palaceray's right. Plus it's the best base for your mop stick.

Yeah a single nail in the cut is fine and using a bit of silicone on the cut is also usefull. That will stop it moving whilst dressing the lead down and less likely to break. Put an x where the nail hole needs to be stare down the spine then trace the x to the back of the slate and hole it.

Maybe so noseall but after years they go brittle to the strands almost see through plus alot of the time they need started with lead and saddled with lead.

Dont cut your last full slate hip cuts as tight. Then there will always be a bit of batten to nail to. You dont need to drill either. Mark an x on the front trace to the back of slate then hole with a 2 1/2 nail or a spike hammer.

its convex and concave about 120m through the eave same through the ridge with monos. Tried striking it but it aint much use. The eternits are ending up more like randoms. Its a learning curve to say the least! Excuse the pun! Catlads methods the way its going :/ .

Any one have any tips to make it easier and achieve straight bonds? The roofs about 8m up the rafter using eternits. Any help would be much appreciated.