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Hi All, Ive been trying to tackle a problem with three radiators I have downstairs that appear to have significant sludge buildup. Hot on top and cold across most of the radiator/s. I intitially got a powerflush done by a local plumber/Gas engineer but this failed to shift any sludge. We...

I have a Y plan heating system and when the hot water is heating up on its own the water is backing up via the vent pipe and depositing water into the FE tank. The speed is set a 1 on the grundfos pump. When the Rads are on their is no water being deposited in the FE tank via the vent even if...

After running ds40 through my system because of some annoying kettling now gone :) I now have an aeroplane sound from around the top of the boiler, this seems to kick in after about 10 mins of the CH firing up. If i run the pump at its lowest speed the sound is miniaml but rads take alot longer...

Doe'nt seem to be air in the system, i vented the system a couple of hours before turning back on and got the banging and whistling

Hi, I have a potterton suprima 50 and have an issue with it whistling for about the first thirty seconds of use and occasionally it grinds to a complete halt and large bangs can be heard from within the beast. Speeding the pump up seemed to cause more bangs. I have recently added some...

Convinced now its a 22mm isolator the BB i mentioned on the side matches up with gasguru's comments it means 'Broan Ballofix'

Does'nt join the flow pipe to the pump, your right the pipes passes behind the flow pipe. It's leaking quite badly hence the question im grateful for everyones help.

The gunge on it is some compound to stem the flow of water leaking through the screw head on the top side of the valve. The slot on the screw head was in line with pipe. Ill get some more pics in about an hour

so not a good idea to replace it with a straight coupler then. The vlave is fully open at the mo anyway so not really restrictin the flow.

heres the pics hope it helps

Dont think the fe tank would be an issue if the rads are filling nicely, it could be a valve issue, do you have a three port valve? this is usually a electrically controlled mech device situated close the the hotwater cylinder? If you do have this you may be able to manually control this...

not with me at the mo but can do when i get home

heres a diagram of what i think the circuits look like the bathroom rads are def on the same circuit as the hw.

I have a small leak on my HW circuit, it's the return pipe i think at the bottom of the cylinder there is a join where it connects up the hw cylinder to the rest of the HW circuit. My issue is wether this joint is a 22mm isolator valve or 22mm double check valve. ? The bathroom rads are on...

Im no expert but I had a very similar problem and found mine is related to a small leak close to the pump and hot water cylinder on the water circuit. Air was being dragged in to the system producing the gurgling. Was there a reason why you flushed down, boiler kettling etc.

Seems the pump is still spinning at high temps, but after removing the centre screw and maunally spinning the pump the noise stopped, until it fired up the next morning. Its very weird

Is there an easy way i can check that the pumps still spinning at high temps?

pump does overun on boiler going off for about 5 mins, have done some more tests and both water and heating have the same issue with the banging, it seems the banging is located along the flow pipe and seems to be when the boiler gets to a certain temp.

The pump seems like it is spinning, most of the rads are getting hot.

I have a potterton suprima 30 with the new circuit board but since firing up my rads for the winter i have a banging noise which occurs after about 30 mins of use. The banging seem's to be coming from the pipe that feeds the pump and boiler. All radiators have been checked for air and i...