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Not a good idea. If the towel rail (or your radiator) is a fixed installation it should be supplied by e.g. a spur box (and ideally located outside the bathroom), not a plug and socket arrangement.

I was supposing the towel rail was in the bathroom so plug-in devices are definitely non-preferred.

Plenty of timers available with 1 or 2 hour boost https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMTGBD2.html. Does he want to control the output of the towel rail (could use https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DXFSCW.html) or the temperature of the room (you could fit a combined timer/roomstat...

I imagine they are compatible, why would you want to get them from a different source? You may have trouble with the warranty.

Surely there are wall chases that give the game away? OP mentions taking ceiling down to check(!) so I would think it likely the wiring runs are a combination of (a) horizontal between outlets if close together (b) vertical from outlet to ceiling void and then horizontally, through joists if...

If 500W is not enough then fit 1kW, but make sure you get one with thermostatic control or fit a wall-mounted thermostat, that way you can control it to your liking and not use an unnecessary amount of power. As others have said, oil-filled will have a longer time constant which may help.

As the connections are accessible by removing the lid of the trunking I do not think there is any requirement for them to be Maintenance Free. Some tape round the choc blocks would prevent accidental contact with the terminal screws. But I agree, hidden connections are not ideal either...

To clarify: The existing safety edge operates on the principle that there are internal copper electrodes which get shorted together when it contacts anything - or so the installer said yesterday. SFAIK it is not "permananently shorted". I suspect the connections might have come adrift as the...

I have a Securoglide Compact garage door about 10 yrs old. The rubber safety strip at the bottom has shrunk away from the ends so the safety circuit does not work and you have to hold the "down" button in for the entire distance. Apparently it has two copper wires in it which are shorted...

I haven't tried it but the browning of the circuit board (which is unusually ?melamine not epoxy) may well be accompanied by a distinctive smell, so comparing the two by sniffing them might shed some light on it. Certainly any heat damage to the previous generation of material which was phenolic...

It wasn't entirely clear and so I wanted to make sure in case someone re-reading this thread in the future (as you have done!) thought having the battery externally was a good thing to do. Video quite impressive but he very nearly shorts out the battery with the long bit of copper tape on the...

I imagine it will work OK without any battery at all but have not tried it. I don't think you should do this. THERE IS A DANGER OF ELECTRIC SHOCK. The use of a voltage dropper capacitor for the power supply means the circuit inside is not isolated from the mains so ALL PARTS OF IT ARE LIVE...

Let us know how you get on as I am curious about the cause in case I suffer the same. I don't think the control box requires the photocell to be working before starting the ignition cycle which it does not appear to be doing. Like @Johntheo5 I have had a Riello burner for 15 years without...

Last for ever unless cracked. I use meths as it does not leave any residue. If very dirty you can use fine wire wool as well but clean away all traces. But if you can't hear the buzz it may not fix it. If you need to bend the electrodes to set the gap use a second set of pliers so you don't bend...

IIRC the control board provides 230V to ignition transformer after the initial purge timeout. Then if the photocell does not detect a flame before a further timeout it goes to the lockout state. It sounds as if this timer is not even starting so allowing the motor to run but I cannot think of an...

I would have thought so. Can you retrofit weather compensation to your boiler. Then you may need to add a relay to disable it while there is hot water demand. This is what we did on a 2009 Vokera, job done.

Does it try and ignite? I have a Riello burner from 1995, you can clearly hear the buzz from the ignition transformer and spark after the initial purge (?12 secs). Don't know why it wouldn't go to lockout if your (working) photocell doesn't detect a flame after that though. Delayed airlock...

When you top up the system the additional water contains dissolved air. When it is heated this comes out of solution and collects at the top of the rads/towel rail. You then bleed this off, the pressure goes down, you add more water....

It should be OK if you shut the mains off. You might want to leave the heating on at a very low level if you are worried about frost depending on whereabouts you live and how well insulated the flat is.

Most modern heat pumps with inverter drives (Vaillant, LG, Mitsubishi etc) do this typically over a range of 2:1. Boilers will typically turn down by a ratio of 5:1 or more. This is not as significant as it might sound because boilers are often over-sized to meet the hot water demand not the...