Search results

This is exactly what happens in a modern boiler (it is called modulation). If it does not do it there is something wrong.

Typical wiring diagrams here may help.

Duplicate post

As with a standard S-plan you would need two motorised valves and a dual-channel timer, the HW timing and valve would be used on its own in the summer. I have got it so the HW demand also inhibits the weather compensation by opening relay contacts in the sensor circuit. This means the CH flow...

Thanks both. Tried it again, this time I can hear it turn the valve (once only). So it is not (now) stuck but still doesn't work reliably. Remembered there is a permanent live to the microswitch so turned whole boiler cct off at DP switch. Dismantled it and was pleased to find the base screws...

I have a Honeywell zone valve which just whirrs all the time as if the gear drive is slipping. The manual lever is completely free to move as well, I can't feel it opening the valve like I can the other two in the system. In this thread @ChrisR wrote "your CH valve is stuck partially open. If...

Stud wall should be fine but, you need waterproof board under the tiling.

If you have an unvented hw cylinder you should check it has a cold water outlet pipe connected to the pressure reducing valve, if so you have balanced supplies and don't need backflow prevention. If you have a vented hw tank then you do.

Your original idea with the 4 core cable should work. Personally I would use 5-core so the circuit back to the immersion in the house has its own neutral. You will need to take the immersion circuit out of the CU in the house and connect it to the 5 core with an MCB in a separate enclosure...

And there needs to be a way of automatically linking the N and E when operating off-grid but not otherwise.

You have got damp somewhere. In the dry, copper pipe will eventually go a dark brown, not green. If not fixed the green will come back. Dry everything thoroughly after the damp cloth as wire wool debris will get everywhere and if there is damp it will go rusty instead of the copper!

Then can you not put some easing oil on the threads for 24h and afterwards back off and re-tighten the gland nut without taking anything apart at all?

What is the construction? If you have suspended floors upstairs and down they are likely to have run the pipework below the floorboards. Do you have specific reason to think the pipes are embedded in the walls? If so a pipe/wire finder will probably detect them as they are copper.. Otherwise...

Water company would never have connected up anything yellow to their network so you may find it is an illicit connection made by bodger the builder. If the blue pipe is still live then a possible solution might involve in capping off the yellow one and re-purposing the blue. But best to leave...

I had a similar situation. Cambridge Water inspector said if we were getting in a contractor he would make them dig to 600mm but as it was DIY he would only insist on 400mm. So if the route above the existing services gives them a good connection path into the meter I think they might be happy...

... which is part of a UFH system installed in 1995? I have not been able to find one with the same port configuration. Unlike most of those available on the web the cold input (bottom) is opposite the outlet (top) and the hot comes in at 90 deg. Ideally I would like to fit an exact replacement...

<I'm looking at doing some decorating soon and plan to remove some radiators so I can paint behind them.> Usually you don't need to take the rads off completely which means you don't lose a significant amount of water or the inhibitor which should have been added. If you turn off the radiator...

So it turns out the Drayton Digistat has an identical 0.68uF dropper capacitor in the power supply section which is similarly prone to failure as described here. But the original Iskra parts seem to have a limited life so I am going to fit one with a slightly higher voltage rating (310V) from...

A pity your reading isn't as good as your sarcasm <there is a lot of complicated wiring including an internet-base control box and a Honeywell evohome setup all connected to the backplate and there is not room on the panel for a wider controller>.

Or new £400 on Amazon(!). I would like to replace like-for-like as there is a lot of complicated wiring including an internet-base control box and a Honeywell evohome setup all connected to the backplate and there is not room on the panel for a wider controller. But seeing the prices I have...