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I'm afraid you will have to take it out, take a look at this thread and read the advice posted by Softus a while ago on how to remove your syphon. From what you have descibed, you have probably got the same kind of syphon.

Yes

Cut it out, get some decent silicone :roll:

:roll:

Water hammer. Do you have an indirect system (Cold water cistern in the loft, hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard) or a pressurised system (Combi)?

If 190 mm is the same as 7 1/2" then thats right. Sorry, tend not to do mm's :oops:

I'd go for Mcalpine everytime, i never have any problems with them.

Club hammer, chisel, tub of elbow grease. Coming out of the wall beneath the bath will be OK, they won't need to be chased below... you can't see them! Depends what size pipe you are using, but 30mm sounds OK. Use duct tape to lag the pipes otherwise your chase will need to be alot deeper...

Check the hot and colds are plumbed in the right way round as per your MI's. If it's thermostatic and plumbed in wrong, it will struggle to callobrate to the temperature you're trying to set it to.

Try wrapping the thread with PTFE. That normally does the trick for me.

Never heard of it myself, but if they say thats what it does - don't get it. Its probably poor quality if thats what it does to it, try another manufacturer.

It could be scaled up if you are in a hard water area. If there is an isolation valve on the hot supply pipe, you could try turning it off and undoing the nut on the tap side. Take the pipe out of the isolation valve then turn it on and off quick to see if there is sufficent flow/no blockage. If...

Check the manufacturers instructions, you'll probably find that they tell you to plumb the pump in like this: imagining the valve as your taps obviously.

Earth the copper pipes. Flexi's normally have a rubber washer in them, you shouldn't need to use PTFE.

Could be a blockage. Is this a new tap you have just installed or has this just happened to your existing tap?

Are you connecting the pump to a shower valve, or a bath/shower mixer tap?

If your new toilet will be a low level set-up (the same as you have already) you can do as suggested above. But just to add... If your new toilet is going to be a close coupled one, it will be alot closer to the wall. You will need to cut the lead on the straight and use a bent pan con.

Well if its leaking from the inlets/outlets its more likely to be a plumbing fault. There are rubber o-rings on the inlets/outlets, if you don't push the copper pipe in very straight it can sometimes split them. If its leaking from any other seals its a manufacturing fault. Get a new pump...

If its leaking from any seals on the pump its a faulty pump. If you mean it leaks from the inlets and outlets thats a different problem. No. Air won't make a pump leak.

You shouldn't need to use any paste or silicone. I never use it and never have problems with it leaking.