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As per the title I've got a project to upgrade our under stairs storage area into something a bit more useful. The layout is currently a bit like this: U-stairs by Chud posted 22 Nov 2017 at 3:30 PM Plan is to replace hatch with 2 concealed doors or one door and a pull out drawer/storage area...

Caveat - I'm not a builder so seek advice from someone more knowledgeable...but...I wouldn't just fill with concrete - that looks to me like the hole or trench is the cavity for your wall - if you just fill it with concrete you're going to create a bridge for both water ingress and thermal. You...

I did similar but it'll depend on the thickness of the concrete post as to whether you can use the above - if the bit of concrete separating the two panels is the same as for the timber post then you're good to go. For me, because the concrete posts were a bit on the wonky side I cut some left...

I'd just go for these https://www.screwfix.com/p/quicksilver-pz-roundhead-woodscrews-8-x-1-200-pack/18997 or they also do a 1 1/2" if 1" is too short...

Alternatively for straight cuts with a circular saw...

That's what I do - buy a reduced price trade case then top up as necessary, got one of TurboGold and one of TurboGold XT.

SDS is your best bet - get a cheapy one if its not going to be used frequently - a 6kg one with rotary stop is a useful tool to have. One thing to not skimp on however is a safety clutch - the cheapest ones on screwfix (energer) dont seem to have them but this one does...

Fire? :D:cautious:;)

How many cupboards - can you not fit a rail between the studs and hang the cupboards off that?

I've never broken one putting stuff together - every one that's broken has happened while undoing/dismantling beefy screws.

I went through quite a few - bought a DeWalt 'set' and a box of bits - I shattered a crap load of them before I'd had enough. Bought a Wera Tri-torsion bit holder and have broken one bit since (a pz3 removing a 120mm Spax deck screw partially rusted). Particularly with they Ryobi unit as it...

If its the same impact driver I have (https://uk.ryobitools.eu/power-tools/drilling-and-screwdriving/rid1801/rid1801m-1/) you're going to want at least the Wera Tri-torsion bit holder or you'll be going through bits like nobody's business - it's max torque is quoted at 220nm which is quite high...

No - not in the case of the WR coat (it's like a pre-treatment to apply before you oil etc to help prevent warping splitting etc and protect from insect/mould attack) - get a cheapy moisture meter off ebay or amazon (I found one for about £5 iirc e.g...

Osmo WR base coat should help a bit with warp and splits as the boards dry out From OSMO's site: "Ideal as extra protection for softwood species for the exterior. A clear wood impregnation which serves as a preventive protection against blue stain, rot and insect attack. Penetrates deeply into...

Additional to the above if you've got the right bit for the screw it should feel locked into the screw recess if you try and wiggle it from side to side.

Going for basics here on top of what others have said re using the : 1) Is your driver bit worn - bits should be regarded as consumables, I've always had good performance from Bosch or Wera bits. The bits supplied with the drill are probably not the best. 2) Is it the right bit for the screw...

This! Your're probably going to need to drill some holes or buy an under mattress ventilation mat from a chandler.

BTW the 'extra' is effectively the old version iirc, the new version gives UV protection but contains no biocides to protect against rot/insects etc.

No that isn't the wrong stuff but in your case it looks like it's lost it's water repellent effect so needed reapplying before it 'silvered' - as the wood has silvered you need to restore the colour so as per my previous post I would use the Osmo gel reviver which is an oxalic acid based product...

OSMO is an oil based stain so it soaks into the wood - it doesn't sit on the surface as a film.