Search results

What Osmo stain was used on it - generally speaking if you're using a lighter coloured stain it has a lower UV SPF. What you're seeing is where the water repellency has worn off and the UV rays have started to break down the wood. As per my previous you should try the OSMO wood reviver gel...

Once you've got the colour back to how you want it you should probably give them a coat of http://www.osmouk.com/sitechaptern.cfm?bookid=Products&chapter=82&page=262 at least once a year.

Yup - Osmo is good stuff but needs renewing, any oil will be the same - you may find the osmo deck reviver will help before you attack them with a sander.

OK so I've made a garden gate from materials left over from my decking - the gate itself has been a bit of a challenge as I've done it all with joinery - it's all mortise and tenon, there's not a single bit of metal in it. It's also quite heavy! However - I've hit a bit of a snag with fitting...

In the case of a table Lol, sorry - I guess I misread your OP! Have you checked the wood is the same piece front to back through the door? just wondering if it's been made by laminating furniture board together to create a thicker piece? Given you have a surface planer if you want to make...

A domino on it's own is not really going to help you make a door - particularly not a panel door (a good table saw, surface planer and router table would be more help), the only thing you'd use the domino for is to join the parts of the frame together - the panels need to float in slots cut in...

FYI my system is currently as follows: cheap basic honing guide (forge steel?) Coarse diamond plate from Screwfix (£3.99) - lubricated with glass cleaner 4000 Water Stone 8000 Water Stone MDF strop with 5 micron diamond paste Thin leather strop laminated to MDF (smooth side up) with 1 micron...

As far as stropping goes you can get very good results with a piece of MDF and some polishing paste (e.g. autosol or cheap diamond paste). In fact there's quite a few folk that advise against using leather strops for chisels and plane blades as it can dub the edge (round it over). Stropping can...

OK a couple of things... 5.4m boards may work out a little bit cheaper - some suppliers will charge a bit more (per linear metre) for longer lengths over your 2.4m standard length - it'll probably be negligible between 5.4 and 6 though! Secondly, either way will be a looong board so I would...

It may vary depending on the type of magnet (ferrous/rare earth etc) but magnets can lose their magnetism at high temperatures - I know for iron magnets it's at about 1300C so not really an issue here but the cheap ones made from powdered composite materials might have a lower curie point.

Pictures would help but are you saying the shed floor is directly on the concrete pad (i.e. it has no runners etc on the underside of the shed?)

Stabilising solution might help with the bricks but ~I'm not sure how that'll work with the damp proofing treatment...you'd definitely have to use the stabilising solution first as it needs to soak in which wouldn't happen after a DP treatment.

Actually I find them way better than a drill driver for this - I torque out way more frequently using the latter!

Modulus shouldn't matter too much for that application - I'd say Dow Corning 785 unless it's going to come into regular contact with food etc in which case you'll want 781 (has no anti mould/bacteria component so is safe for use in contact with potable water etc).

Another vote for ABS Avocet - you can usually pick them up for £40-£50. Only thing about them I'd say is that the key's are magnetic so don't put them in a pocket with a card that still relies upon a magnetic stripe.

Did he supply and fit the skirting - did he give you any options on materials e.g. mdf, pine etc?

I've just taken a look at his facebook page and it looks legit - are you sure he did the work and not an apprentice or something? If it was an apprentice he should still have made sure the work was of a satisfactory standard.

Just to clarify for the homeowner if the sockets were already there then you do not have to move them up - with a baby due in 5 weeks they don't need to undertake a rewiring job as well. As for caulk I wouldn't bother - that skirting has not been done by the same person who did the work in...

Did you fall off a ladder or something or just move the brush the wrong way??

It was back in 2006 - I think that was before I discovered this place!