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There's a thread on another forum I frequent that has the title of 'Injuries (not bad, but bad enough)' - I think this is probably what the OP was aiming for! For my part the worst I've done was down to a combination of tiredness and a stanley knife: 11pm, I'd been working on ripping out an...

You'd be better off using a sander to hog off enough enough material to get the wood to a uniform colour (it won't take much). Alternatively you could try a card scraper - again hard work but might be better than sanding?

Grab bags is probably what you're after - look on the websites for local stone/aggregate suppliers as they often offer this as a secondary service.

Are you hand sanding it?? o_O In short yes a power sander is going to take a lot of the grunt out of it (still a git of a job though!) You probably want to start with a belt sander with a coarse grit (60 grit?) to clean off all the old crud and get the colour more uniform - you'll need a...

and do it as cash on collection - not paypal...in fact just put it on Gumtree as there's no fees!

They'll probably insist on (another) indemnity insurance policy to cover it regardless that BC won't be interested now.

Yeah - that's why I said 'can' make things safer ;-) It would primarily depend on the cutter being used - I know the finger joint cutters should only be used on a table. My point was if you get a router with a rocker type switch you have the option to table mount it, if you get one with a 2...

Great advice - router planes aren't cheap though (more expensive than a cheap 1/4" router as far as I know) although Paul Sellers has instructions for a poor mans router plane on his blog if I remember. Anyhow...if I had to do a repair I would be inclined to replace the stapled on runners with...

Another point to bear in mind is that routers with a flick type switch can usually be mounted to a router table which can make things easier/safer, routers with (dual) triggers that have to be kept pressed in can't (unless the manufacturer specifies and provides instructions etc).

Plus one on this! I've gone from a 1/4" to 1/2" and to be honest am thinking of getting another 1/4" or a fixed base for smaller jobs - the 1/2" is a beast that'll power through jobs but is unwieldy for finer work!

Unless I'm misunderstanding your post I don't think bending the ends of a cladding strip 1ft relative to the middle over a 10 foot length will need any steam or water unless the cladding is pretty thick..? Most cladding I can think of would deflect more than this from gravity if you picked up a...

If you can create a square'ish hole (file a normally drilled one) then you could use a cage nut (like are used in rack units for audio equipment or computer rooms)

If you're going to dovetail the sleepers you've got your work cut out but the circular saw should be up to the job...you're going to want some good sharp chisels though...

Bessey are good if you can stretch to them. Personally I've got a selection of F and speed clamps. You shouldn't need too much clamping force if your joints are tight - if you're having to clamp hard to close up joints then the likelihood is that they will reopen eventually.

Yeah...well relatively - depends on what you're going to use to cut them - most circular saws have a cut depth limit of around 6cm so you're going to be looking at handsaw or chainsaw for any through cuts.

Just to add to the conversation you can get an infinite (100yr) deal from VPN unlimited - normally $500 for about £30 or so via Stack Social. I got this deal and it's legit - it might not be the best VPN but it does allow access to streaming etc. and £30 for 100 yrs is pretty cheap!

As a note to the above the colour charts on the Osmo site are not great as they've painted the stain on the wood type they're emulating e.g. bangkirai on a piece of bankirai, larch on larch etc. the colour charts on Wood Finishes Direct are better as they've painted the stain on softwood decking...

Having just trialled most of Osmo's decking oil colours (you can get 5ml tester sachets from Osmo or places like Wood Finishes Direct) trying to find the right colour for our deck I can say that some of the colours definitely end up with a finish that looks more 'paint like' - as in they cover...

As others have said you should follow the product advice of avoiding using oil. The reason for this is (usually) with quite a few veneers the oil penetrates the veneer and releases it from the glue holding it to the rest of the wood. In your case I'd probably opt for a wipe-on polyurethane...

You could go for a wiping varnish - e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wipe-On-Poly-16-Ounces-Gloss/dp/B003W06L0S (obviously not that one though as it's a bit pricey!) I would probably opt for Satin though rather than gloss. The above is solvent based so should be OK with the previously applied oil...