Search results

There's a rubber washer that fits in there to seal the filling loop, that pipe should only be under pressure whilst filling/topping up pressure, It won't (shouldn't) leak at all if both filling valves are shut. Pull that awful silicone off, and have a look to see if rubber washer has been fitted.

Difficult to tell from the pic, but I can't see why he wouldn't have used a standard 90 degree pan conn rather than an offset and short straight. However, as long as the bottom of the pan conn is sealed in the pipe below, it shouldn't smell/leak.

Without being in front of it, we don't know, but it's quite likely your plate hex is clogged and unable to dissipate heat to the HW side, Clean or replace plate hex.

Hacksaw, and replace hose

Don't worry about air, if you have a leak, the air will rush out, closely followed by water. So a friend told me :giggle:

Manu's advise that you should, if your mains pressure is over a certain amount.

Look forward to a world of pain as you disturb things. Manufacturers should be banned from producing these things, invariably, you will end up having to pull the pan forward to allow you access to the cistern. You could get lucky, and be able to swap the flush valve from above, assuming that's...

I always suggest to customers that they leave their TRVs fully open all summer, this helps to prevent them from sticking in the closed position, a problem for which I get amillion calls every October. Your vent pipe needs to be unobstructed, and pointing inside the f&e tank, next time you put...

Rad covers are a pet hate of mine.

Those 2 valves on flow & return appear to be closed, assuming (as DP says) they're working properly. The blue valve is mains cold inlet, which is also in the closed position, if it is closed, no water will come out of hot taps.

They're bothe the same

I usually fit a small length of pipe between flow & return for the water to circulate

I'll wager a virtual pound that the copper pipe below the tap is 1/2" imperial.

Just buy a flexi with an integral iso valve

All modern loos are like this now, if the inlet valve fails/passes water, it will just run into the pan. That how it is .

I would be very wary about trying to add solder to an already leaking, dirty joint like that, I can almost gaurantee the solder won't run into the joint properly, and you'll be back to square one. To do it properly, cut it out and start again, if there's no lateral give in the pipe that will...

Sounds like an issue with your thermostat if HW is working?

Those thing never work particularly well as they are so sensitive to water pressure fluctuations, it may be something as simple as your neighbours flushing their loos at the same time causing a small pressure drop, which in turn will affect your shower. If it were me, I'd fit a thermostatic...

Good luck with that in the middle of winter when they haven't enough staff to cope.

You have a blockage somewhere, almost certainly around the area near where cold feed joins the system, or in the air separater.