am having a few probs with the old boiler(mynute 14se),so trawled your forum,found out about filler loops an stuff and it worked a dream,only i may have been a bit ham fisted,its running at 2.5 bar,what i ask is how to let some pressure off.
cheers
quote.Doesn’t matter either way.
well writen ,and good advice to :) but i have a problem with the above quote,if the spots are cut out i get coverd in skim dont you?
not with the above system m8,that gear is full weight render as opposed to light weight/tight coat and you really need to bully it with the edge,i could see plastic moving,i did twenty houses with only base bead,all angles were hand made but once set they were rock hard ,mind saying that a tight...
brian4069 is quite correct,we are registered applicators for strucktherm,the fibre basecoat is like iron,if a little difficult to use ,can only be floated and wont take a sponge,but the acrylics are the best i've used,flesscoat tonachino stands out and holds its color very well.
if you really want to be sure mesh and pin it,we did some a few years ago and it was the only way to get the guarantee from manufacturer(painted brick) wont be much more work or cost.
hydrated lime if used with cement,buy from somewere that moves a few pallets its dead if its been on the shelf for a month!
sand,yes sharp but just as important washed.
limes well worth it m8,why not stick it in the scratch if not waterproofing,your arms will love ya :)
best ive ever used trowel,never seen it fail m8!
edit to say,ive yet to find a product that says it will stick to paint specialy the old oil based stuff.