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I think it's all (flooring grade t&g chipboard) water resistant these days.It should survive long enough to notice and rectify any leak. If it's ground floor have you considered solid or B&B?

The first day of my wife's new car - rolled it down the driveway into my own car (it has a seriously odd pedal offset which meant the clutch pedal was where I thought the brake pedal would be), all I found where the handbrake lever should be was half a packet of wine gums and a phone cable. A...

And so it begins! I said to my wife "hasn't your brother gone for the pizza yet?" "No" she said, "he's still sat in his fancy new car figuring out how to turn all the crap off before he can drive it"

Sprinkle a few bags of cement in your trench and hose it down before you do your footings - DIY ground stabilisation.

Just a board adhesive rather an expanding foam.

A few coats of the Thompson's stuff. Foamed PIR is an effective vapour barrier, the foam doesn't allow moisture to cross and you'll get a lot more insulation with the limited space you have available (current regs would demand around 100mm). You still have the potential issue I highlighted...

Ard you sure that's a half brick wall? The brick pattern suggests otherwise - or there'll be a load of rough snapped bricks on the other side. The waterproofing is a good idea, but you'd be better foaming PIR bonded plasterboard on rather than stud walls.

Stick 9.5mm foil backed plasterboard over, extend at least 100mm past the steel.

I have used a similar kit (Sealey) for my Astra caliper bolt. The 3 metal plates are drill guides. It all went really well.

I'd use 25mm PIR bonded plasterboard otherwise you'll have cold bridging through your studwork. You can hang the cabinets using rails.

It's worth looking at the common faults that may affect the cars in question - ecoboost, wet belt, seemingly lots of Stellantis stuff at the moment. Often it's particular engines, gear boxes (especially computerised automatics) and electrical items (fancy display screens). My car is 15 years...

Plenty of online calculators - just insert volumes to be filled.

Its a device to trick the system into thinking the faulty part is working. Sounds a bit bad, but if all it means is the the passenger side airbag would still deploy even if the seat wasn't occupied it could well be an effective bodge if the proper fix is expensive.

I thought this rang a bell - you've asked about this years ago and if I recall correctly were given suitable advice??

You would just use a short length - If it's that one on the top left of your picture that says "not in wall" then it looks like you only have 15" but that should be enough. You might still find it easier to carry the end of your new piece on a joist hanger but a photo would make it clearer.

If it's close enough to the wall use a joist hanger, otherwise extend via sistering.

Get a price for a scaffold - for say 8 weeks with a fixed weekly price beyond that. That will make it safe as houses. Price up dry ridge and hip kits (I think they're about £20 linear m), hip trays (pretty cheap), and some lengths of batten. If you don't have any cat ladders you can make some...

I've stopped mixing my own concrete - it was costing me more than barrowmix.

Nice work opps. I can't wait to see Keitai's before and afters.

Why not contact the previous owners (obviously letting them know that you're not "angry") and ask them. It was likely an insurance claim so there might be a schedule of the work done or they might have details of the builders. There should not normally be a situation where a floor can carry a...