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Dont you already have RCD's? Your flats pretty new... Post a photo of the consumer unit.

you need at the very least an "out" pipe. You cant make the hose smaller, you might be able to convert to "flat" ducting if you wanted, or better still, use 100mm rigid PVC instead of that crappy flexible stuff.

TLC has a fan calculator, so the first step is to use that, and calculate how much airflow you need. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Ventilation/Ventilation4.html Once you've run thru the calculator, you can either view TLC's options, or take the figures elsewhere and search using...

1 is a specification, and its not really at the electricians discretion, he just has to design what you want in a safe manner. There was discussion recently about using ELV switching for all lighting in a property, that might be an option here?

Perhaps to distinguish between "no load" and "a very small load where the light will flash but you'll have to sit there for 5 minutes waiting to see it"?

The small silver can mounted on the base plate is likely a thermal fuse/safety cutout. If you follow the live wire, you see it comes into the main thermostat, leaves the thermostat and goes to the cutout, then continues on to the element terminal. The idea is if the main thermostat fails...

Yeh i guess it is a lot. My kitchen (~4.5x3.5m) happens to have 4x 36w fluros, and its bright for sure, but not in a bad way. I do have black doors on the kitchen units though which i guess makes it feel somewhat darker. To me it just feels "well lit". Interestingly it has made me realise so...

http://www.head-fi.org/t/486598/testing-audiophile-claims-and-myths And this is the specific one i remembered (apologies it wasnt a valve amp, just a high end one): http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/12752-blind-listening-tests-amplifiers.html

Theres a few good articles on proper double blind studys, including one i read where the "audiophile" couldnt tell the difference between his £££££ valve amplified setup, and a £500 Onkyo AV receiver, in his own home, with his own speakers, listening to his own content... :roll:

A 36w T8 fluro is rated to 3350lm How can they claim a 7800lm panel is equivalent to 4x3350lm? can they not do basic math? In lumens per watt, HF T8 Fluro will usually beat LED's, and it certainly seems to be the case with that panel... 90w for 7800lm is 86lm per watt 144w for 13400lm...

I think the cost thing still happens with medication. People buy branded off the shelf painkillers rather than the generics...

if you thaught 20quid for a fuse was bad, you missed this: http://www.russandrews.com/product.asp?lookup=1&region=UK&currency=GBP&pf_id=1564

surely you must be able to see where it terminates inside the garage? it must go to a switch or box or something. It cant just vanish into the wall and not reappear...

I've never heard of asbestos insulated cabling. Its probably Pyro/MICC.

Is your electricity that unstable that you need to goto all of that effort? I mean i guess i'm used to living in a town, but i dont really remember the last time we had a power cut, certainly theres never been a situation where i've thought "damn, if only i had a genset in the garage"...

less power

Keep the gas hob. Much much better than electric hobs!

Well it is, because various pizzas can take anything from 5minutes to 25minutes+, and it doesnt specify wether 0.79kwh applies to an asda smart price 9" or a goodfellas deep pan stuffed crust 15". :lol:

that 0.79kwh figure for the oven is largely meaningless. However i have the same one, and it comes equipped with a 13A plug, so its going to be <=3kw.

except iggys one says maximum power 9w and he has 12w of LED's