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are you sure your "two pole switch" is not a switch fuse? Post a photo!

how much power does the annexe require?

It may simply be that the RCD in the house is slightly more sensitive, or reacts slightly faster. You shouldnt really have stacked RCD's like that anyway, and this is the exact reason why. Assuming appropriate cabling is present, the supply to the garden should come from a non-RCD part of...

it does come under building regs. Either you will have had to provide an electrical certificate to the building control officer, or your electrician will have self certified the work. Either way you should have got some paperwork for the electrical work. At this stage, if you dont have...

You probably want to put both of the wires that are currently in "COM" into "L" on the new dimmer (discarding the link wire) and then L1 to ~1 for the other two wires. The faceplate also requires the earth wire to be connected to it, as well as a link to the backbox.

If you use unsheilded cable, there would be no linked earth between the two buildings anyway.

Seen a few news stories from london semi-recently in a similar vein. What exactly is causing it? Is it just ancient cables deteriorating?

You lift the floor boards (and any floor covering), and make good afterwards. Why dont you retain a gas cooker, that way you can continue running it from the kitchen ring as before?

Because its rated to 7kw :lol: As your other post suggests though, the regulation seems to only apply to things that are designed to be plugged in. The old hob clearly wasnt, the new one i guess could have been though, as its just a low current ignition system. Isnt there a regulation...

The electric hob i removed from my kitchen had a flex fitted with bare ends and a big sticker on the back saying "Do not remove the cable". The gas hob that replaced it also had a flex attached with bare ends. So i can only imagine fixed equipment are exempt?

You need to call the DNO, not an electrician, and get it inspected by them. They should come out and look at it for free. It also looks like fabric covered cable, which is surely ancient and should be replaced!

use the fan size calculator on the TLC website first, to ensure the fan your selecting is actually big enough: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Ventilation/Ventilation4.html I went with a Manrose MF100t for my shower room, and a MF150S for my kitchen extraction, not fitted them yet...

many brand name machines use airguides and chassis fans to do all the cooling (barring the PSU) They'll have a fanless CPU heatsink, a big fan on the case and will rely on the airflow thru the chassis with the side on to properly cool everything. When running with the side off, things can...

Surely that applies to humans as well, but you still get a belt if you touch a live wire while standing on carpet with shoes on etc.... Something i've never quite understood.

That fuse carrier is knackered and must be replaced. There might also be damage to the wiring from the heat, it may even have been a loose wire thats caused the melt down in the first place.

Tiny 2" downlights are **** at lighting rooms, this seems immediately obvious to anyone with eyes, and i'm amazed given your forum name that you've not noticed it. LED downlights are, in my experience, even worse than halogen ones, as the beam diffusion is much less, and they become even more...

:lol: Was more a comment on the MI's requiring FCU's, evidently the MI's of my oven wants it plugged in!

My hotpoint single oven has a plug moulded onto the lead!

yes you can see the part number on it, its the same as the rcd on the other end.

[/url] Yeh my mistake.