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  1. H

    DNO isolator fitment - catch-22

    Aye pal, I'll get a photo next time I'm round there.
  2. H

    DNO isolator fitment - catch-22

    Hi Skenk, there's nowhere else for the isolator. There's a cupboard about 10" wide by 20" tall, with the meter at the top and the Wylex below it. I am going to mount the new CU on the adjacent wall, and all I want visible is a length of trunking between the CU and meter cupboard. I think...
  3. H

    Dimensions of an old 4-way wooden backed Wylex standard?

    Anyone know them? Thanks! :)
  4. H

    DNO isolator fitment - catch-22

    Sorry, that reply was to JohnD, I hadn't noticed ban-all-sheds's reply! This is all getting rather complicated and confusing. BAS, I have thought about that, but I really need the Wylex out the way so I can mount my enclosure to extend the circuits. So, let's try and make things simple...
  5. H

    DNO isolator fitment - catch-22

    I can't do that because the DNO guy says so! So, do I just get the DNO to de-energise, remove the old tails from the meter, connect my new ones, then get them out to re-energise? No isolators needed. And I was hoping for a free 100A DP from the DNO! :lol:
  6. H

    DNO isolator fitment - catch-22

    Yeah, it's a regular tenement. My tenement is about half a mile away, and we did have a cutout OUTSIDE the door to each flat. Then about 3-4 years the DNO came out and replaced the main head and submains, and fitted new standard fused incomers in each flat. However at the flat in question...
  7. H

    DNO isolator fitment - catch-22

    Right-oh, thanks for the replies. What I was assuming was that the DNO would leave me with an isolator all connected up on their side, ready for me to connect my new tails to at my leisure. But are you saying that I must connect my own tails directly to the consumer's side of the meter...
  8. H

    DNO isolator fitment - catch-22

    Hello forum! I am going to be installing a new CU for a neighbour, to replace the old wooden-backed Wylex she currently has. (Small one-bed flat, wired in metric PVC T&E, and the IR for the whole lot is fine) The meter board is next to the front door, in a small cupboard, only about as...
  9. H

    A ringless design... your thoughts please?

    Because that would be too easy! :lol: I am leaning towards 25A/4mm radials - will I get 2x4mm cables in to an MK Logic accessory?
  10. H

    help!!! bare wires sticking out of skirting board.....

    Heh heh! Do you get audiophools posting on here now? Check this out http://www.matrixhifi.com/contenedor_ppec_eng.htm
  11. H

    A ringless design... your thoughts please?

    Thanks for the responses, I understand what you mean aboot loading, and of course a separate circuit for each appliance (a la Johnny Foreigner) is the best way, but as I'm going to be using an all RCBO setup costs could quickly escalate. Of course, with everything on, each 20A radial would...
  12. H

    A ringless design... your thoughts please?

    That's one of the reasons I'm sticking with 2.5mm/20amp. The other being that it makes any future additions so much easier, no need to mess around extending rings or utilising contrived allowances within the regs... :)
  13. H

    A ringless design... your thoughts please?

    When I (if I ever get round to it) renovate my flat, I am not planning on using any ring final circuits, radials only. I'm sure a radial for sockets on a B20 RCBO will be fine (only two bedrooms and a living room), I'll run a 6mm/32A cooker circuit for possible future use, although I cook with...
  14. H

    Mains powered combined CO and smoke detector

    Hmmm, found this one here http://3in1combinedalarm.yolasite.com/, but it needs an AC adapter, so is not quite the 'mains powered' I was looking for. It also come with a wall-wart type transformer, so not really ideal for mounting on a ceiling.
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    Mains powered combined CO and smoke detector

    Thanks for the pointers ban, If I can find such a unit, I will place it in the hallway of my flat, where it will be with 1.5 metre of the kitchen, both bedrooms and living room doors (it's an L shaped hallway). The only (potential, hopefully!) sources of CO will be the combi boiler and gas...
  16. H

    Mains powered combined CO and smoke detector

    Do they exist? I'm sure I saw one online sometime last year, but I can't find one now. I've seen battery powered combined units, but not mains. Anyone know of such a thing? Cheers.
  17. H

    Picture of the mid week!™

    That is pretty impressive. You've got to admire the spark's commitment; it would have been easy to just mount the DLs in the plasterboard, but s/he wasn't afraid of a bit of woodwork! To get so many of them in the joists also requires some serious planning.
  18. H

    Fuse Rating

    Good work with the individual 16A breakers for each appliance, however it sounds as if you have made things more difficult than neccessary and also could possibly overload the 4mm cable. Depending on installation method 4mm may not be suitable for use with a 32a breaker upstream. (You did...
  19. H

    Wiring an Appliance direct

    Fair enough, I don't know how I missed that. Alough 32A may still be too high depending on the installation method..... I would still favour an FCU over a socket outlet for a fixed item like this.
  20. H

    Wiring an Appliance direct

    Sigh. Why have you posted this twice? I've just seen your other post, the one that contains the info I've just asked...
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