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My toilet cistern has started refilling very slowly. It seems to fill faster if the ring on the left of the picture is loosened slightly. Can it be adjusted in this way or is the ring purely for holding the arm on that stops the flow? Thanks.

It's a common thing that happens on this style forum. On the other forums sense it happens all the time. Just without sarcastic replys! :roll:

Sorry, this should have been a new thread. Hence the topic entered.

How much condensation should you get on the main cold water inlet to the house? Sometimes it's dripping off the stoptap but not a constant drip, just there is water there that looks like its ready to drip. Also when removing part of a kitchen unit today where the pipe goes into the concrete...

I think a leak is unlikely as the only water upstairs is for the heating cylinder and 2x header tanks, the pipe work for these is over 6 meters away. I will try leaving the fan running constantly though and see what happens. EDIT: just remembered there is a radiator above the bathroom, I...

I forgot to say the bathroom is downstairs. The blown plaster is near the level of the ceiling of the bathroom. The walls and floor are completely tiled so I don't think the water could get through that way? Also the floor is solid concrete not floorboards. It's worth putting a vent to the...

We have a cupboard under our stairs that is against an outside wall. We seem to get a lot of mould growing on items in there, mainly shoes and bags. The walls / carpet and ceiling seem to be unaffected. There is no ventilation to the room.  Would adding a vent help the problem? If so, vented to...

Ok, thanks. I'd read in the paper that on some gas products (probably boilers) it needs adjusting to prevent carbon monoxide. I wasn't sure if this would apply to a gas hob too. I'm a qualified electrician so understand why people are suspicious! :p

That's the answer I needed, thanks very much.

I can't get into the gas forum so thought I'd post here. If a new gas hob is installed does it need any adjustment or is it a case of connecting the gas supply and that it? Don't worry it's not something that being done by me!

Thanks for taking the time to write that. Although I've actually done it now. In the end I ignored the wiring diagrams and designed it on a piece of paper myself. As I didn't want to add another valve to the gravity DHW I didn't! So everything still runs as intended except that we can't have...

They are around 1.5m from the boiler on the 22mm CH flow just after a T. Mine isn't C plan or C Plus. It works as intended, but I can't wire it to just have the DHW on without one or both of the valves opening. I think I should have bought a motorised valve with a 2 pole switch. I think now...

Thanks. Why would I need more than a wiring diagram?!

Sounds right. I am looking for a wiring plan to use as I have put in 2 zone valves which are controlled by different thermostats.

I'm not sure it's boxed in! The CH flow and return are 22mm and the 2? DHW convection pipes are 28mm.

Yes, It's a conventional boiler. There is a hot water cylinder upstairs with a tank above it. The central heating has a pump next to the boiler with a tank in the loft, there is a separate programmer and thermostat. There are no motorised or mechanical valves on the system at all. :)

My heating and hot water are controlled by a non-combi boiler with a DHW tank. There are NO valves in the system at all. Which wiring plan is this? Thanks.

I've got all the parts now! Its a similar cost installing electric vs gas if I do it myself. I had a quote for someone to fit the valves and it was considerably more than I expected! I'm following the way of doing it that they suggested though.

I'm using a heat exchanger designed for a pond. 'Pond heaters' are designed to keep a part of the surface free from ice. Or you can get more powerful inline versions, but electric is far more expensive than gas!

The purpose is to create a seperate zone for the heating in my pond. Thus I need two seperate zones that will heat independantly.