Search results

We use 18mm osb3 8x2 t&g boards. If your doing a warm roof construction, consider insulated ply boards.

A mix of plastering sand and building sand should be fine, add a splash of sbr, option of a handful of glass fibre strands for a bit more added strength.

As said, wet verges are more preferable, its best to raise the tiles, remove existing and apply a good full bed of mortar pressing the tile down and point up. Over pointing on the existing doesn't last long.

For any one interested, I had a seasoned spread give us a hand over skimming on a complete house, different surfaces. The bonding agent he uses is a self mixture of, pva, sbr, water and k-rend ( for the grit ) Painted/rollered on the day before and works out a lot cheaper.

The first layer nailed down is perforated. second layer, torch on. third layer green mineral torch on. Use a good felt, app is a plastic asphalt. sbs is elastic asphalt and takes less heat. Sounds like you have a cheaper felt and over heating.

Looks like they worked from the valley out. Would have made more sense to join from existing, they have still got to cut into the valley.

They have fitted a new lead valley to the neighbours side, and by looking at the photo the bonding gutter only laps the lead valley by about an inch. Looks like the 3 bottom tiles have been dropped down a bit. The bonding gutter should be okay but the bottom tiles need sorting out plus...

You will need to lift the tiles to get a good mortar bed under the tiles. A three in one mix plus add some glass fibre strands to the mix, to give it a bit extra strength.

The roof is one of the most important part of your house, so Id suggest getting a flat roofer in to either do it in torch on felt or epdm. Strip all existing of and check boards, you will probably need new boards if going the epdm roof. I wouldn't trust buying the rubber of ebay, use...

Its not a good idea running the outlet pipe into the gutter down pipe, we were called out not long ago to a flooded house. The lower pipe blocked up with leaves etc, causing the water to flood back through.

You would need a good torch on felt, which isn't really diy. Theres an amount of skill getting the drip trims etc looking tidy, plus applying the right amount of heat to melt the bitumen and not burn/scorch the felt. You will find it easier, screwing a sheet of ply over existing ( remove the...

Elephants Foot/Pepper Pot, or Rain/Bird guard Cowl.

A Bossing stick is what you need, use a fibre glass one to avoid marking the lead. Start from the top and gently work down the lead to form it in tight. If you want to be accurate, finish with a chase wedge.

They would have been far better formed in lead, with the correct fall.

You would have been better of replacing the 6mm ply with 18mm osb 3 t&g boards, these wont dip when screwing. Fit 75mm x 50mm timber around all edges. Use, Insofast flat roof fixings, lengths up to 200mm, can be hammered in or driven in with an sds drill with appropriate adapter.

The letter t, the wrong way round.

If the flat roof on the top bay is sloping forward fit some guttering and T it into the down pipe.

Use 18mm T&G OSB 3 roof boards, 2.4x1.2 The EPDM wont stick very good to rough surfaces, you need to fix some 9mm ply screwed to the wall, minimum 150mm upstand, the ubber can be contact adhesive to it. Ideally you would run a cutter along the render, fit the rubber then trims or lead...

In my opinion, it will look better, far easier to guarantee a water tight seal between the different materials. With the glass fixed directly into the valley via glazing bars the lead will be pierced with the fixings.