Search results

1, Solid wood expands widthways and only very marginally lengthways. A 5mm or 10mm gap at the front door would be fine if the floor is running the length of the hallway. Either way a cover strip is needed. As a guide, a 15mm expansion gap is not required over an area of around 1 metre width...

The tongue you have cut off i assume is still in the neighbouring plank. If so, remove it if possible and cut the next to fit. The old plank might be a good template if it comes out in 1 piece. Failing that, remove the tongue from the new plank, cut to size and either face nail it or screw...

Agree also,,,, bouncy bouncy !!

Not sure if there is a specific test but experience tells me distemper is usually white, pink, blue or yellow in pastell shades. Simply rub a finger over it and if you have chalky residue on your hand it's likely to be distemper. PVA eventually cures it but only after several coats allowing...

Both parties may be to blame here..From what i have read, i think your fitter has some experience, just not enough. He should have demanded that you pay for a DPM before screeding, instead he advised and you declined. He may have given you the wrong advice though, i.e 3% moisture content...

ductape will work so long as the room is hoovered before applying.

ductape will work so long as the room is hoovered before applying.

As it is an engineered floor you're planning on... (understand that engineered isn't solid) 4mm foil backed underlay for the concrete area (joints sealed) and 4mm standard underlay (no foil) for the floorboard area. If you buy a click system then no glue required,. If it is not a click system...

Agree with peaps but to save time and money, the job won't last as long though, use a stipple coat then re-render.

No need to wait. Use sand/cement/waterproofer. mix ratio is on the bag.

You can't use waterproffer in hardwall !!!

There are too many possible answers.. But first try to establish if the walls are actually damp (penetrating damp) by using a moisture meter on both dark and light areas. All render will contain moisture but a difference in the shaded areas will confim penetrating damp. Render can look like it...

The white powder you mentioned might be (distemper) used between the 30' & 60's and nothing sticks to it. I'd get that chedked before you do anything else.

The drip bead should always be above the damp course. Also your final coat should be weaker than the scratch coat, i.e less cement. If a5/1 mix was used in the scratch then a 6/1 should be used in the finish coat.

Self leveller @ 15mm floor tiles @ 10mm Adhesive @ 5mm = a standard profile.

Yes,,, a sister joist could be added from the top of the staircase running right through the balcony to connect with the wall in the alcove, (must be connected and supported by brickwork) so through the dot n dab plasterboard. An inner joist could be supported by a joist hanger (from balcony)...

www.f-ball.co.uk

Yes you are missing something.. There are different "click systems" One type that can be fitted horizontally is "uniclic" who make "quick-step" .It's a patented product so no one else can use the same system. Most, if not all others have their own click system and they all have to be fitted at...

WBP ply is best option. You could also fit a vinyl flooring such as camaro or karndean straight to it, much better and easier than laminate.

Marmox is expensive but comes in 6mm thickness upwards to around 30mm or more and you can bond it to the concrete with tile adhesive making you floor really solid and no bounce. Floating celotex or similar is bound to make it bounce ..