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You're right, they do look cheap. I would accept that material for internal shelves, but not doors. Those corners will be peeling and cracking within months.

Doing that inside the house... I take it you are single?

I did neither, which was a bit rash, but it worked out fine. Installing the cabinets is not a big deal but you need to be good with general carpentry, as you will need to modify them, measure well, fit cornice, pelmet, handles, etc. And silly things like using the right length of screws, etc.

That masterplug box is useless, I've tried it. Not remotely waterproof. Much better result with these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dri-Box-FL-1859-285G-Weatherproof-Green-Medium/dp/B00E9AO34Q/

Don't do it. Install an electric oil heater and a timer or smart plug to control when it turns on.

I just got my DIY-kitchens order last week. Units are now all installed. All feels high quality, glued and doweled, no rubbish cams. So much faster to set up than a flatpack kitchen. I used their online planner ( https://planner.diy-kitchens.com ) and it worked very well. Everything fits! I...

Love the stainless steel. It would never be approved by senior management though! If it was up to me it would be stainless steel and polished concrete all the way. The backsplash though...

There was some rot around the sink area. I suspect with a better choice of sink/detailing that would have been avoided. I'd take real wood over grotty cheap looking laminate any day.

I had solid oak for 8 years. Looking pretty awful by the end - didn't oil it as often as I should. But it's good to know that it's easy to sand back and refinish no matter how bad it gets.

Here's one I installed (not in UK): https://scontent-lht6-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/27912872_10156293723242932_665212692871618484_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_ht=scontent-lht6-1.xx&oh=38eaf598cf8abc652c2d14a1d16fffb4&oe=5CBC45DF 3-pole 3 way switch. Took some figuring out and sketching of the circuits...

Of course. Though not sure why there would be water pooling there. Are you planning to leave the tap running?

I bit the bullet and went for Quartz. Cost as much as the units again, so 7k total for a largish kitchen with island (no appliances). I justified it as since I'm doing everything myself (except for fitting the worktop) I saved enough money to offset the worktops. The other option would have been...

It's the ivy. You want to get rid of that stuff, it will end up doing a lot of damage to the house.

Yep, the top of the walls need to be level all round. Then your joists and firrings on top. Make sure to strap the roof down to the walls at each corner. Something like this: http://clients.junction-18.com/beep/RoofConstruction/img/slide-19.png

In that case, go for the flat roof method. Appropriately sized joists, firrings to achieve a fall on the roof (but maintain level ceiling indoors), 18mm OSB on top, sheet of EPDM on top of that. Then fit 100mm PIR insulation between the joists from underneath (leaving space above the...

PD specifies 2.5 m as the eaves height. This means that if you have a pitched roof, the overall height can be as much as 4m. But if you want to keep it simple, EPDM flat roof, constructed as a cold roof, ie insulation between rafters would give you the lowest overall height but highest...

The vents are there to get rid of damp air in the underfloor void. That air will be warmer than ambient because of the ground and the house above it. Warm humid air hitting cold paving slabs = condensation.

Very curious and unusual. Also unusual to see copper for underground supply. That pipe will corrode and leak at some point I am sure, being in contact with concrete and soil. If it were my house i'd want to to dig down outside, and replace that copper with a length of MDPE pipe. Then fill with...

The OP hasn't mentioned one, only an extractor wired directly into the cooker switch.

Surely an unfused spur from a cooker switch in anything smaller than the cable feeding the cooker switch is undersized? Whether it's 1.5mm or 2.5mm, it needs a FCU.