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I just mean that in OP's design, even if the internal VCL was perfect, you would still have a problem by having an unventilated and un-breathable cavity.

Regardless of the internal VCL, you would still have an unventilated cavity in a timber structure, which to me sounds wrong. There's a reason that housewrap is breathable.

I wouldn't use mineral wool in the walls. It'll slump and won't be nearly as effective as PIR. I insulated my garden room floor walls and ceiling with 100mm PIR and it's very cosy. Most days the heat from my PC alone is enough to keep it warm.

You can overboard with insulated plasterboard, sure. That would be the quickest and easiest method. No timber needed. Though it depends if your ceiling is high enough to get away with that. If not, you'll need to rip down the plasterboard and insulate between the timbers.

To prevent humidity, First of all it needs to be completely watertight of course. Roof yes epdm, but the walls need a breathable house wrap before the cladding. Don't try and put internal flooring straight onto concrete - that's asking for damp. Creating an insulated concrete base with DPM and...

That's not my picture, it's just illustrative. Cables can go against the insulation, but behind the plasterboard. Make sure the studs are about 30mm deeper than the insulation to allow for that.

If you are reusing insulation sheets you already have you will need to build a stud wall. Timber and screws aren't too expensive. The insulation is cut to size and pressed in between the studs. https://thumbsnap.com/s/dztDLdAU.jpg Very straight forward to do. Then you would put a plastic...

I very much doubt it. To test it - go outside when your neighbours are talking. Can you hear them as clearly in the street? If not, then it's not the walls.

You will not be able to hear recognisable voices through two bricks. Not unless you can see daylight through the wall. Muffled sounds and thumps maybe, but the way you describe it sounds like something else to me.

The quality of the mortar is not going to make any difference to the noise transmission. I think you need to look at the more obvious routes for noise, other than the 3-brick thick wall. I wouldn't be surprised if there's a large hole in the party wall below the floor like this...

Even a single skin brick wall will stop the sound of a voice so it must be coming through by another route. What is the subfloor made of downstairs?

If you really want to be cheap, just paint over the blocks and bricks, and paint the concrete floor. Then you'll have a nice garage. Put the insulation boards you have in the ceiling if you feel like it, though assuming the room is unheated, doesn't seem much point. But if you want more than...

You can order the quartz worktops via diy-kitchens. They will outsource to a specialist who will come and template, then install.

For DIY, you can't beat solid oak worktops. They are very cheap right now and can easily be cut, sanded and fitted by any DIY'er. Much better than laminate.

A 34kw boiler would be able to keep almost any house warm. So your problem seems to be more of a heating one than an insulation one. What kind of heating controls have you got? You're not doing anything silly like turning off your heating at 8pm or something?

diy-kitchens.com is worth a look for diy kitchen installation. Use floorplanner.com to plan the room.

Put in electrics for shaver/toothbrush socket. Extraction Lighting

Most likely he was a cowboy even before his cert expired.

Pah, do it yourself. Quite straight forward and completely legal.

Batteries change everything. Although the total consumption off the grid will increase, the demand will be much smoother, which is better for everyone.