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Tap the pin with a hammer, should free it up. But it will get stuck again before long.

If there was an Officious and Unhelpful Clipboard Award, BAS would win it every time.

Do you really need to replace that liner?

Nope, no need. There wasn't any draught before. Though I did go round and stuff rockwool in some poorly insulated bits in the ceiling, for example at the edge of the flat roof where there was only fascia between the inside and outside.

Well that would make watering the garden cheaper! :whistle:

Saying it should be moved because it's close to some stairs seems a bit bizarre. What about timber framed houses? What about the cables in timber ceiling and roof structures? Mounting the fusebox on a sheet of ply is still pretty much standard practice.

If you place the transformer remote from the lights, i would say that as it's a low voltage setup, you don't need to worry about the bathroom zones regulations.

For what it's worth, my rear extension has been done with standard dot and dab, and there were no drafts after or before the plastering was done. It seems that as has been mentioned, with yours there is a problem with the detailing where the walls meet the ceiling.

Nope, it's powered by 3 AAA's.

Actually the Tado room stat can be wireless with the Tado Extension kit. The extension kit plugs in place of a programmer, and the thermostat can be anywhere. Can't believe that OP has no thermostat for the house. Very strange setup with the zone valve too.

Hi, This has probably been asked many times. Looking at engineered wood floating floor for a kitchen/diner. I've used click systems before and they are quite straight forward. However from a quick look around, Tongue and Groove boards seem more freely available, thicker and better quality...

If it's not a shared drain then it's quite straightforward. If it is shared you will have to pay £££ to the water co and build the new manholeto a much stricter spec.

I would stay well clear. That whole wall needs taking down and relaying. You'll have to do the whole building or it'll look awful. And on a leasehold too...

I'd allow £50k when all is said and done. Depends how much of it you will do yourself (plumbing, electrics, decoration).

You say you have no professional knowledge yet you seem to be making a lot of assumptions. Why exactly is using a cooker circuit for a shower a 'cowboy' practice? What makes you think that the current wiring is unsafe? You have to be careful with unscrupulous electricians using scare stories...

Apparently you can dot and dab with tile adhesive. But I'd put a few screws through into the wall to be safe.

If the cables are PVC then they don't necessarily need replacing. Why would you waste money on ripping perfectly good cables out of the walls? A new consumer unit and upgrade to RCD protection is probably a good idea however.

Nope. In sink disposals are common and the whole point is that the solids go down the drain. They are not some experimental newfangled invention.

Extractors are usually fitted at 1650mm from floor. So as long as the outlet of the fan is within 400mm of the bottom of the extractor it should be doable. Edit: This image shows that is indeed the case...

The trouble is that that trap is too large for the volume of water going through it. So there is never enough velocity to sweep the solids from the disposal around the bend. If there is only that kitchen waste going in there I would put the u-bend inside in 40mm like this...