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If that rebar continues through under the house, you have your answer. And you should start getting worried. You might want to check that before you go any further. If it doesn't, then that's good news for you, and it means the garage was built on a raft, where rebar is standard. The SE doing...

Thanks to those who provided advice. It seems that if the cable is at least 50 mm deep in the wall, it's considered safe. As I'll be having 25 mm of dot dab and skim, I only need to chase the cable in by 25 mm.

Well one out of the 5 points above is true in this case. Never a good idea to mix opinions and facts.

I've just checked with BC and they have confirmed in writing that they are not interested in the electrics at all. Their certificate will not cover them.

Do you have a source for that?

Of course building control know about the extension. The electrical work is non-notifiable according to Part P.

This work is non-notifiable.

Hi, New extension being built, and I am doing the first fix. Does anyone have any ideas how to wire up the outside lights from the inside and still have the cables within safe zones? I really don't want to have blanking plates halfway up my walls.

I'd pour the new concrete to the highest point on the old base. Then level the old base with suitable self-levelling compound. Don't use thin layers of concrete, it will come off.

Old wood is actually stronger than new. For the accumulator I'd probably just make a platform that spreads the load across two or three joists.

You might be overthinking this. All of that is pretty standard stuff assuming those joists are sound and correctly sized for the span.

There's a reason that millions of houses were built with a loft tank and vented hot water cylinder! It works whatever the incoming water pressure.

Look up how many watts per sq m UFH puts out. I think you'll struggle to heat a conservatory with UFH.

What I would do here is get rid of the utility room/wc, and leave that area unbuilt with the manhole on the main sewer there. Then put your utility room and WC where the back half of the garage is. If you want to keep a fullsize garage you will need to extend it forwards and figure out what to...

Radiators are cheap as chips. Replace it.

Not a thermostat - a programmer. This: https://www.bes.co.uk/media/catalog/product/d/r/drayton-lp112-lifestyle-programmer-23901-8_23901_P_1.jpg

Don't you have an existing programmer? The Tado extension fits right onto the standard programmer backplate. Just remember to set the jumper for potential free/240v switching.

The only one who can say for sure is the drainage authority. However, they only care about their own sewer. Building Control is the next hurdle - as has been mentioned, they are unlikely to approve a plan where the flow needs to effectively double back on itself.

The boundaries appear to be there, marked in red. If so, then you may be out of luck. You have no place to move the manhole to, and the water company will likely not permit you to simply delete the manhole. The manhole you have to collect your own drainage is not a manhole on the line of the...

In my experience speedfit fitted correctly is completely reliable. Where you get problems are clueless amateurs installing it wrong and giving it a bad name. The improvements are effectively attempts to make it even more amateur-friendly. There's plenty of ways to muck up a copper installation...