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That's a joke of a price. For 3 rads you need 22mm with at least two 15mm branches to the rads. 15mm can supply two rads max.

No DPC - house will be damp. In the past this wasn't so much of an issue, because all the windows and doors were so leaky that you got enough ventilation to carry away the damp. Now you have double glazing and probably sealed up all random holes in the house, the damp has nowhere to go...

It's not the well. If the water is in the well, it's also in the ground. Houses are expected to stand on wet ground and not be damp inside. More likely is a lack of DPC, or the DPC being breached somehow. From the pictures it looks like the ground at the back of the house has been built up or...

Moving it up is better. Cutting it will be a bodge. It will take all of 10 minutes to chop out a bit of plaster, trim the timber slightly shorter, and nail it back into place.

Do it yourself! It's not that hard and you will get a lot of help here. Also watch this entire series: I followed that and my garden room is up and looking not too shabby.

It depends - do you want a bodge up which will last a year or two, or are you planning to stay in the house and use the room for years to come? If the latter, you really have no alternative but to rip it down and do it properly. You can reuse most of the timber and insulation. But if you don't...

That is a boatload of work. 6 months seems optimistic. If you are talking about hiring individual trades yourself, you will need a very detailed project plan, with all the dependencies between the tasks identified. The fact you're asking about them here means that you should probably be talking...

Push fit connectors properly installed are miles better than a compression fitting. You're thinking based on hunches and assumptions, that somehow metal is better than plastic. A push fit connection once properly installed will _not leak_ and will probably outlive you. Those compression fittings...

Yours looks like it has had some more recent work done - the mortar around the arch is of a different colour. Maybe it collapsed and the steel is part of the fix?

I meant that those are a completely unflued gas fire in your room. So you will probably be fine!

Doesn't anyone remember these heaters? Didn't do us any harm! https://media.nisbets.com/asset/core/prodimage/largezoom/hc271_heater.jpg

It's a garage floor, not the footings for a suspension bridge! It's a barely visible hairline crack, totally normal when concrete dries. Inevitable if there are no relief joints. Don't stress about such irrelevant things, you'll be much happier.

Are the floorboards properly screwed down to the joists? Can you make the sound by stepping on the joists themselves?

Why felt? It's an obsolete roofing material and an absolute pig to get on. EPDM is far far better for flat roofs.

Ah well. My completely non expert idea would as follows: Assuming the floor joists are securely embedded into the wall, I would reuse them in situ to act as acro props. So build up some sturdy blocks or timber under the joists on either side of the wall, pushing the floor joists upward. You...

I would forget the render, put on tyvek house wrap, and then batten and clad with timber or similar. That will keep any rain from touching the outside leaf. Assuming your DPC is ok, you should be fine.

Seems like a lot of faff just for some pipes. Why not just core drill a 110mm hole. Would be more than enough for anything in a house.

Put a bookcase in front of them, mounted to the wall with hinges

Build a cupboard around them.

All seems to be completely OTT. Just run an extension lead into the shack from the house. Try not to trip over the lead.