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Yes , its in the manual.Its the next bit about resetting customer codes , just follow the instructions.

The bellbox comes with a comprehensive installation guide and is compatible with your panel. The 13v + / - terminals are for powered detectors , and the SET terminal is for latching detectors ( it is 13v positive when the system is set , goes 0v when unset).

Yes you can program the zone 5 as a normal alarm zone or as a 24 hr zone , so as an internal alarm is sounded if the door is opened while the system is unset. Have a look at the Texecom Exodus range of smoke / heat detectors. Please seek professional advise if unsure.

I would suggest a complete power down , mains and battery, leave for at least 10 secs , then power up mains first.If that doesn't work remove all wiring , replace factory links , then try the default method as shown in the manual , if that fails , then it looks like its replacement panel time...

Looks like a 9200 Scantronic. You can get the manuals from ukpanels.

Make sure you let the entry time finish , Scantronics have 2-ply entry sounders , where the internal sounder triggers ( as a pre-warning) then the external sounder follows later.An easier way to test it is to press the PA button. There is also a possibility that the bell has a delay...

You need to repair your sensor , this should allow you to reset the panel with your user code and press reset.

Your bellbox can operate from its own supply (as you have proved by removing the battery and mains from your panel) or from a switched negative from the panel , this can be simulated by placing the link as instructed .Because your bell sounds when the battery / mains is removed , this proves...

If its only a short distance , I wouldnt worry about it.You could use screened cable if you want.Have a look at the ACT Meters website , there used to be some articles on measuring and reducing induced AC.

If you have the engineers code , just change the zone that protects the back door to a timed zone (page 34 in the manual). Obviously I don't have knowledge of your property , but its usually best to only have one ex/ent route, and coming in through the back door could be more dangerous ( darker...

If you place a wire link between A and B of the bell conections (with the wires still in their terminals) then the outside sounder should sound.This should point to the bell and its wiring being o.k. Then its just a matter of finding out why the panel isn't triggering the bell ( either a blown...

The alarm requires defaulting , this will give you a user code with which to control the alarm.It may be wise to replace the back up battery at the same time.

Because she doesnt have the engineers code...and to set-up a part set would require some reprogramming...using an engineers code.

Hi , all that is required is a "part set" setting up , so the kitchen would be omitted , and the hallway would change function to ex/ent.As this is an engineer function , you would need the panel defaulting , re-programming and a service (basic test of all functions / detectors and sounders ...

The 9448+ doesnt use resistors, the wiring and diagrams should be virtually identical.

T = tamper return = BT A = 0v = B/S- D = 12v perm = + B/S B = Bell trigger = BA Strobe - = strobe neg trigger = STB sometimes the legends differ from manufacturer ..but the meanings are usually obvious.

You will have blown the rkp fuse ( F2 , 1A 20m) always best to remove when testing.There may be a spare in the bottom of the panel.

That message looks like code tamper rkp 1..so it is not recognising the code you are using.If you are sure the code is correct , try 5678 (default user) just incase the panel has defaulted.If the internal siren is still sounding then find its supply wires and snip.

I presume you mean the Optima alarm panel..the bell tamper wires are T and A .

Yes , just leave the jumpers as it came out of the box..battery on , SAB.