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You can use a rail that is the desired thickness of sand for example i have some 32mm steel pipe for this and you can lay them direct on the sub base. The other more common method is to spread a thin layer of sand roughly in a line where you want to place your rails, say 15mm of sand and...

I'd definitely recommend building a seperate retaining wall unless you have no other choice eg. On a boundary etc. The extra cost and potential risk of waterproofing and extra structural work will make it expensive anyway.

You need to grind out and remove the pointing from all around first. Then get an L shaped piece of something and slide it down under the slab and twist it 90deg then you can use it and a second one to lift the slab. This will only work if there are some small voids in the bedding.

It happens on any newly installed jointing sand. It doesn't really hold together until it gets a bit dirty etc. Its best to just top it up a month or so later. There are stabilisers available but they are a bit overpriced for how little they help. A quality solvent based sealant usually helps...

You dont want plywood as it will give you loads of joints at its max 8ft lengths or 10ft for shuttering ply. use whatever you have or can get cheaply in longish lengths. If you use 4x2 then it'll be stiffer and need less staking. You will find pull screeding 14ft of wet concrete almost...

Where is your dpc on the house? Your finished paving should finish 150mm below dpc. Is your existing concrete low enough to allow you to lay on top of it? Re using hardcore is ok if mixed with and used in combination with new sub base like mot type 1 but simply lumps of broken concrete on their...

Don't use a geotextile under gravel, the only place for geotextiles is under sub base. Level out the hollows, scratch the top inch or two loose and regrade it all and recompact. Then add 50mm or gravel.

You will not get an exact match for colour. They look like normal tegula setts but most paving suppliers will sell something similar but usually very slightly different sizes. Some will be 90x50, 90x70 90x90 90x120 but others will use 80x50 80x80 etc so you need to use the dimensions to get the...

The neatest way is to use one large flag as a keystone mitre so it ends up as a kite shape and then you simply run square off both sides of it. This may not work if the angle is too steep or you dont have a big enough flag. If you are laying in a random pattern or your flags are too small for...

Technically you are not allowed to but the volume of water will be so small that it will not matter. A weep vent through some of the brick joints would be the neatest way to do it.

You need to make sure the wall is not loose. Often banging such as a slamming gate on the open end of a wall like that will put fractures in the joints further down the wall so make sure the whole wall on the gate side of the pier is not moving at all. A 4'' wall that high is pretty dangerous...

8 bags of 25kg of grit sand. 2 bags of cement. 6:1 is fine.

It will most likely be regional. Where are you?

Your aware though presumably that if doing this method then you need to provided a stepped horizontal dpc above the reveal? The catnic performs this function with the need to build in the seperate dpc.

As the others said, bolts are fine. You might want to bulk up your stud work. A 5m long wall made of 3x2 will be a bit lightweight if you ask me. Bulking to 4x2 will make a noticable difference.

Your quite right Steven, I had just assumed round up stump killer was not glyphosate its only something I gave seen on shelves at diy stores and have never looked at it closely. Apologies for any confusion, I'm not totally up to speed with diy weedkillers. I use different professional use only...

Glyphosate is ineffective against woody growth. It should only be applied to foliage. You need to use a woody weedkiller like SBK or roundup do a stump and woody weed killer product. It will have a different active ingredient like triclopyr

I replied to your first thread about this shed and my concerns especially about the floor are still valid. You are creating a rot and condensation haven in your proposed 'floor' the way you describe it. I honestly think you could throw quite a few quid in materials into this venture and be left...

What is the pier for? If its internal then presumably load bearing so hollows are no use. If its for external then they would need rendered and hollow blocks aren't great for that.

Galvanised conduit from an electrical supplier is a good value way to get bendable corrosion proof steel. Do you need to join it? How were you planning on doing that?