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he is getting you to do the right thing mate. Regs changed on 6th April ( or there abouts ) where an escape window is no longer required from the extra level , BUT , every door needs to be 1/2 hr. Your job was obviously submitted before this time so you need , an escape window from...

Forums are perfect for just that . My opinions are just that , my opinions , based mainly on many years experience . Water the horses well tonight , you no doubt have a long day tommorrow

:twisted: :mrgreen:

Just not for my house . Why do they not make trench blocks of the same density ? I just feel its crack city and not an option that i would choose , as i say its personal choice . I get the feeling you dont like others to have an opinion in here ,dont worry , i wont interfere again.

Thats a very dangerous game for a diyer to be playing A building notice requires details of foul or rainwater drainage , a dimensioned block plan and a few other snippets. The fact you can mostly get away with not providing the requested info is another matter . I have spent many hours...

I am just a dinosaur , i would never have turbo blocks under ground on a property of mine

Building control will require the basics ,even under a building notice they want something . fees in Berkshire are £140 for up to 2k of works , for works 2k - 5k its £240

The air brick should reallly be piped to take its air from the new wall , you could end up leaving an area where no cross ventilation is achieved in the existing floor . Just basics imho and they are skimping them . As for the Thermalite blocks , do you know what ones they are ?

imho , its yes and yes. BC costs , for up to £5k of works amount to £240 , ( costs vary some areas) then the costs of preparing drawings for the application

bloody hell , the lynching mob are out . I dont see anywhere it was mentioned he was using plastic , isnt he allowed to carcass the install himself with a corgi god doing the final connection ? Glad i dont have a neighbour like tilly :twisted:

I suspect thats the problem , I dont fit them , but i do design installs . A few thoughts .......... can you not alter the last 90 to a couple of 45's or similar ? If you have an excessive fall on the pipe , the solids can be left stranded mid way . Another thought , would an air...

I suspect the next move was to put a beam along the side wall , then run the first floor in cavity work off the steel frame .

It was the only heating we had in that room for over a year :lol: But whenever i drop a rad for decorating purposes , I always fit the hose now , just in case anything lets go.

if you cant get a blanking nut , i found that a washing machine hose will bodge the job for a while . Although i have to admit on relying on it for a year when i refurbed our bedroom

I cant think of a reason why you wouldnt be able to use it . I would have a look to make sure the bends into the manhole dont have any dodgy angles etc to restrict the flow of solid matter It will still remain active as a vent pipe . Its just that in earlier years , soil pipes and vent...

have a look athis diagram , it basically shows the 2 options and dimensions on one plan http://images.marketworks.com/fullView.asp?id=213349986&fc=0&img=http://images.auctionworks.com/hi/71/71030/naples-techdraw.gif

Its also not the same trap as mentioned by tryitandsee

It is the dimension from back of outlet to back of cistern that is the critical one. Most old contract pans that sit over a 100 dia outlet , require the outlet too far from the back wall for a normal close coupled suite to be a direct replacement. If you cant visualise it , you will soon...

it is normal , if you havent planned it correctly :lol: , you can get thermalite " bricks " too but if you dont fancy ripping a course of blockes down , just go with brickwork or how about just laying a row of blocks on their side across the whole wall width ?

If howy is trying to replace a typical late seventies contract pan , that cistern will lave a gap of about 125mm back to the wall . No connectors will get into the typical floor outlet